Anyone try OneUP 40T or 42T Cassette Sprocket?

[unc99]

Just ordered a V20 frameset (standard size--still out of stock). Starting to think about components. Mostly rolling hills in my area, but would like to have low gearing option for the occasional big hill---but don't want a triple. Has anyone tried the OneUp 40T or 42T sprocket? According to their website, you take a normal SRAM or Shimano 10 speed 11-36 cassette, and (1) replace the 15t and 17t sprockets with a single 16t sprocket they provide and (2) add the 40t (or 42t) on the end. If this were to work, seems like it would give comparable gearing to a triple while using a double. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[ratz]

Rick and a few others have do that with good success.
They'll likely chime in; I think most people have used Wolf components.

Here are two threads that talk about it that I could dig up.

http://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/installed-sram-x7-type-2-rear-deraileur.8446/
http://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/it-was-a-wonderful-ride.8554/#post-111052

 

[unc99]

Thanks Ratz! I figured others had already tried this approach given the difficulties of using a triple

 

[Rick Youngblood]

Yes, what Bob said. I like the Wolf 42 cog. However, I removed the 11t cog instead of the 15t or 17t...just a mater of preference. Lots of talk here on the board about very low gearing. I absolutely love this setup for hill climbs, works very well for me to conqueror the mountains in my area.

http://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/collections/cassette-cogs/products/giant-cog-for-sram

Both Vendetta and Silvio use 42 Wolf cogs. Vendetta hooked up with 34x52 Q-rings and Silvio 34x50 Q-rings.

 

[Abbott Smith]

My SigrD has a spiffy 42t Wolf cog in red. Love it but be advised the super low gearing is tougher to maintain stabilty. My first season I found my self getting blown on the really steep climb segments. Spent the off season interspersing some rowing machine work into my regimen. So far I'm finding that my low gearing is more helpful with that extra upper body work. The V20 is still a recumbent. I try to only use my arms to accelerate and for brief pitch changes/position breaks.

 

[ratz]

One thing to consider; to protect the budget, (yeah I know irony). But before you go too far down that route; consider your hills; we "roll" a lot around here and I can go up some pretty severe stuff with a 38Tx28T.... In the beginning years it was a 34Tx32T which progressed to 36Tx32T. Depends on how long the hills are. If you are going to start with a 11-36T you might want to hold the cash in reserve before pulling the trigger on the 40-42T upgrade. Test out the 36T and see how it services your needs. Rick and the west coast boys have uphills that takes 25 minutes to climb. Around here they are steep but last no more than 4-5 minutes, 10 minutes would be a long one.

This is some testing I did with the 38Tx28T this past weekend on Two different hills. The first one was about 4 minutes into the ride. The second one was around an hour and 15 minutes after having done about 6-7 seven of those types of climbs. At the end of the second one you'll se the front end go back and forth; as I pump the handlebars to try and accelerate at the top. I need to work on that; I always for get to do it; and it really does work.

 

[Abbott Smith]

I got the Wolf not for the long climbs so much as for the steep chunks within some of the climbs. The only road into my neighborhood is 16% above my house and 20% below it. Each chunk is about a block in length.

And sometimes walking the bike is the best option. As one rider said to me last year. "You got that bike up to the top of the hill with nothing but your own power and will. Who cares whether you walked or rode. You conquered the hill."

 

[unc99]

If you are going to start with a 11-36T you might want to hold the cash in reserve before pulling the trigger on the 40-42T upgrade. Test out the 36T and see how it services your needs.

Yeah, that is good advice. Could always add the 40t or 42t later. I live in the Charlotte NC area, and my view of a "big hill" is probably a bit skewed compared to others in different locations.

 

[Rick Youngblood]

Test out the 36T and see how it services your needs.

This good advise and costs nothing. If it does work out, then could always do low gear upgrade. It all really boils down to what kind of shape the engine is in, or if you can avoid the big hills while tuning the engine. Good luck and enjoy.

 

[ratz]

I got the Wolf not for the long climbs so much as for the steep chunks within some of the climbs. The only road into my neighborhood is 16% above my house and 20% below it. Each chunk is about a block in length.

And sometimes walking the bike is the best option. As one rider said to me last year. "You got that bike up to the top of the hill with nothing but your own power and will. Who cares whether you walked or rode. You conquered the hill."

I now feel better about moving to the top of hill with a 14% and 16% on either side now. 20% ouch my car wouldn't like that.

 

[ratz]

Yeah, that is good advice. Could always add the 40t or 42t later. I live in the Charlotte NC area, and my view of a "big hill" is probably a bit skewed compared to others in different locations.

That would depend on whether you go east or west and how long Remember the V20 is going to carry you a long ways in short time; Your available riding zone will definitely increase.

 

[Robert O]

I've got 52-36 round rings, 11-36 11sp in the back. I'll let you know how that works next month after I climb McNeil Canyon Rd on a three day Chelan outing in Eastern Washington. 2350 feet of climbing in about 6.4 miles. A friend of mine told about climbing McNeil out of the saddle a couple of years ago during a big event over there. She was really suffering, but she saw a guy in the distance and vowed that she would keep going to catch up with him. For 25 minutes, she struggled up the hill chasing him. When she got close enough to see him better, she realized that he'd been walking his bike the whole time.

 

[LMT]

Or perhaps go the other way and look at the changing the chain rings? A 42*11 at 95rpm will give you just under 29mph....whilst at the same time have gearing low enough to get up any hill.

The thing that would get me with a wolf tooth would be the gaps in gearing running a 11-40. I have some hilly albeit col like audax rides coming up over the Summer. And as such have invested in a 40/28 chainset, I've then ordered some MTB Q rings 44 & 23. The 44*11/28 I feel will suffice for most hills. And I have the ultimate granny gear in 23*28. I figure even going up a 10% hill a high rpm will still be less than 300 watts which is within threshold. Just about works with a triple front mech with the limit screws adjusted for a double.

 

[ratz]

MTB Q rings 44 & 23

Lee that's interesting. What's the BCD on that MTB Set; and the follow question, what cranks did you find that can fit that small ring on the V20? Or are you going do modifications. Can't wait to see what that looks like done. IF not for the FWD 23x28 is wheelie territory.

the gaps in gearing running a 11-40.

That's always my issue; the cadence jumps are annoying at times.

 

[Rick Youngblood]

That's always my issue; the cadence jumps are annoying at times.

You get used to - it's all give and take, and where you live. Here in Redding some of the most beautiful and most exciting riding is in the mountains. If I eliminate my trusty 36-42 cogs, I give up a lot of riding...that's just where I live. But I will take the mountains over flats almost any day.

 

[LMT]

Lee that's interesting. What's the BCD on that MTB Set; and the follow question, what cranks did you find that can fit that small ring on the V20? Or are you going do modifications. Can't wait to see what that looks like done. IF not for the FWD 23x28 is wheelie territory.


That's always my issue; the cadence jumps are annoying at times.

Shimano XT, the BCD is 104/64. The chain ring nuts slightly rub against the stay. I've ordered the Q rings and will probably fit them at the weekend. I may file a mm or so from the stay or look at repositioning it on the boom so it is ever so slightly moved over to the non drive side.

EDIT: Or get some chain ring bolts that sit flush rather than the current ones that are raised.

 

[ratz]

Shimano XT, the BCD is 104. The chain ring nuts slightly rub against the stay. I've ordered the Q rings and will probably fit them at the weekend. I may file a mm or so from the stay or look at repositioning it on the boom so it is ever so slightly moved over to the non drive side.

EDIT: Or get some chain ring bolts that sit flush rather than the current ones that are raised.

I thought about using some 1mm BB spacers (between the shell and the cups) last year but wasn't sure what that would do to the q-factor of if I would have noticed.

 

[LMT]

I thought about using some 1mm BB spacers (between the shell and the cups) last year but wasn't sure what that would do to the q-factor of if I would have noticed.

Yep, that's another option to look into. I don't think the Q factor would be noticeable TBH.

 

[RAR]

But I will take the mountains over flats almost any day.

I'm with you Rick. I live in the flats and I wish I didn't. Hope to move in a couple of years.

 

[Abbott Smith]

I've got 52-36 round rings, 11-36 11sp in the back. I'll let you know how that works next month after I climb McNeil Canyon Rd on a three day Chelan outing in Eastern Washington. 2350 feet of climbing in about 6.4 miles. A friend of mine told about climbing McNeil out of the saddle a couple of years ago during a big event over there. She was really suffering, but she saw a guy in the distance and vowed that she would keep going to catch up with him. For 25 minutes, she struggled up the hill chasing him. When she got close enough to see him better, she realized that he'd been walking his bike the whole time.

That is a nasty climb Robert.