Drivetrain suggestions?

[DuncanWatson]

What drivetrain are you all using on your V20s? I am considering SRAM components and want something that will work and not involve a lot of fsck'ng around. I would prefer a triple but can live with a compact double? I am more interested in a clean shifting reliable drivetrain than handling 15% grade hills.

 

[Rick Youngblood]

Duncan

For Sram you could pretty much go with what Robert installs on new V20 builds.

Shifters - Sram Apex brifters. Use Rival on the V2 and Apex on the S2.
Front Derailleur - I highly recommenced the Force Yaw.
Rear Derailleur - Robert installs Sram X7 type 2, Jim Parker installed same thing on Maria's V20. I've used the X9 Type 2 on both Silvio and Vendetta. Get long cage for wide gear ratios.
Cassette - 11-36t - Shimano or Sram - I personally use the Shimano XT 11-36 because according to Wolf Tooth Components it shifts better using there 40 and 42 cog upgrades.
Chain - I use the KMC X10L
Brakes - I use Sram Apex on the Silvio and Rival on the Vendetta
Crankset - Almost any compact double - Robert installs the FSA SLK Light Carbon Crankset - I have a set too I purchase for the Vendetta. I've also use the Rival Crankset.

My sytem is 100% reliable, shifts are smooth, and I use every gear small-small and big-big.

This is a Cruzbike build - by Robert:
The full Vendetta V20 build includes the race-ready components below:

FSA SLK Cranks
FSA SLK Calipers
SRAM Rival Shifters
SRAM 11-32 Cassette
SRAM Rival Front Derailleur
SRAM X9 Type 2 Rear Derailleur
Cruzbike Aero 67 700c Wheels
Panaracer Type A 25c Tires

 

[telephd]

Duncan, Ive got Roberts build on my S30 and like it a lot. The SRAM double tap took awhile to get used to but is second nature after around 500 miles. Im slowly building my V20 with complete Ultegra 6800. Ive currently got 170mm crankset but have been seriously considering a 165mm before the chain goes on. Ive got the GS RD so I can handle a larger cassette range which is currently 11-32. Ill post more as the build progresses. In reality Ive been having so much fun riding the S30 that Im not in a real hurry to get the V20 build done!

 

[DuncanWatson]

Rick, thank you for the comprehensive list. I will probably go for a 165mm crankset and the rest basically Robert's build. Sram Rival sounds great, the wheels are where I may deviate since I am a clydesdale.

 

[Rick Youngblood]

Im not in a real hurry to get the V20 build done!

Once you do get the build done, you will wonder why you waited so long. But yes, it's good to get your MBB schooling out of the way first!

 

[Rick Youngblood]

I may deviate since I am a clydesdale.

Now wait a minute you are 5'7" right?

I will probably go for a 165mm crankset

I would say not any bigger. Larry is 5'7" and he went with 150mm for his knees. I'm on 155mm for the time being for my knees. But in your avatar you appear to be a young guy, so 165mm may work out for you, that is if you don't have knee problems like Larry and I.

 

[ratz]

Now wait a minute you are 5'7" right?


I would say not any bigger. Larry is 5'7" and he went with 150mm for his knees. I'm on 155mm for the time being for my knees. But in your avatar you appear to be a young guy, so 165mm may work out for you, that is if you don't have knee problems like Larry and I.

Mrs ratz is 5'7". Her silvio last year. 165 sram rival compact crank. All other components sram Force. Wifi 11-32 and 52/34 q-rings. Kmc 10xl chain. Frog pedals.

This year she got di2 and all those parts moved to my silvio and she is whisper quiet and butter smooth. Speedplay zeros.

My vendetta is di2 ultegra this year with a 12x28 durace 11sp cassette. Rival 165 compact crank. 52/36 aero q-ring kmc 11xl.


Bikesmith 155-150 cranks would be high in my list of I was shorter

 

[Rick Youngblood]

My vendetta is di2 ultegra

Bob, I'm hoping you will do a review on the Di2.

Bikesmith 155-150 cranks would be high in my list of I was shorter

...or you get to be my age!

 

[ratz]

Bob, I'm hoping you will do a review on the Di2.


...or you get to be my age!

You betcha. I have one ride in and I need to change the computer programming to figure out what I want the buttons to do.

Start saving you cash. It rocks and mrs ratz has more road rides in and agrees.

 

[LarryOz]

Crank lengths:
My personal view is that if your knees are bending past 90 degrees on your back stroke and correctly extended (just short of straight) on the push, then you need shorter cranks.
Good knees or bad, young or old - your knees will thank you in the end, and I think your power will benefit.
There is just no need for your knees to bend back that far.
..
I am also experimenting now with 140's now as I am learning to spin at 110 and 120. Legs move less with shorter cranks, so better all around.

 

[Robert Holler]

All good advice above. A triple is not needed on these bikes - and for road groups the industry is going to all doubles and wide cassettes for climbing gears. Youc an get the same gear ratios as a triple with less overlap and lower total component weight.

This is better than a triple will ever be in my opinion and eliminates all of the goofy trim needed for a triple front DR setup. Win-win!

 

[Abbott Smith]

All good advice above. A triple is not needed on these bikes - and for road groups the industry is going to all doubles and wide cassettes for climbing gears. Youc an get the same gear ratios as a triple with less overlap and lower total component weight.

This is better than a triple will ever be in my opinion and eliminates all of the goofy trim needed for a triple front DR setup. Win-win!

The other advantage that I see with the wide cassette versus triple is that it puts the majority of the shifting on the rear derailleur. Rear derailleurs are more precise.

 

[DuncanWatson]

I am fine with a compact double. Heck I don't even have a front derailleur on my raptobike.

 

[DuncanWatson]

Now wait a minute you are 5'7" right?


I would say not any bigger. Larry is 5'7" and he went with 150mm for his knees. I'm on 155mm for the time being for my knees. But in your avatar you appear to be a young guy, so 165mm may work out for you, that is if you don't have knee problems like Larry and I.

I am using the old bikeforum.net defination of Clydesdale. >200 lbs

Given that I spent the most time on my Raptobike and it only has 11 speeds total, I can deal with a wide rear cassette and a compact double. I can get back into shape again, it just takes some commitment. And I can be committed... wait.

 

[ratz]

I can get back into shape again, it just takes some commitment

The wife and I have been following the "racing weight - quick start" program. I'm down 25 and she closing in on highschool weight. Both of us have been able to increase power and strength at the same time while training. Granted if not loosing weight the power gains would be a lot higher; but to drop that much weight in 3 month and not loose power has been mind blowing. Highly recommend the book. (note you might not like the recipes, just build your own following the nutrition targets with foods you like). The books has philsophy of the program, meal plans and bike training plans. There is a longer complementary book called "racing weight." It is the first three chapters of the quick start blown out to 13 chapters to beat the topic to death. Skip that one; read the quick start, and trust that he knows what the heck he's taking about. Also a good read when combined with Fast After 50.

 

[Lief]

After all this talk about cranks down in the 160's and even 150's on ya'll that are around 5'7" I wonder if Maria might chime in here and explain just how it is that she rides a 172.5 crank?

You are like 5'2" on the first stair...
Have you even tried the shorter cranks?

 

[DuncanWatson]

I have used 165s on my Raptobike and since that is the easiest to obtain short stock size that is the size I am likely to use again. My Raptobike has an FSA Gossamer Crankset (165mm).

 

[telephd]

I would also like to plug Cycling Past 50. Its the book that precedes Fast After 50 that Bob recommended. It is a great book with sage tips and a ton of training advice. Im actually following Friel's Century training routine and have been seeing marked improvement.

 

[Charles.Plager]

Crank length is a very personal thing. I agree that there are standard sizes for a given leg length, but if you are used to riding something different, that's just what you might prefer...

 

[LarryOz]

I ride 150's and love them.
To me it's all about how your legs are built too. The length of each section, etc.
On the out-stroke you don't want you leg to be over-extended, so for most a very slight bend in the knee is the best setup. Once you have that dialed in, then take a look at what you're knee angle is on the back-stroke.
If it is going past 90 degrees, then it is usually bad on the knees. (Plus there is now power on the out-stroke with you knee bent that far)
With my original 172.5mm cranks, my knees where at at 65 degrees on the back-stroke, and I had some mild pain, and also noticed it was harder to spin anything above 90rpm.
When I switched to 150mm, I had to obviously re-adjust my boom so my out-stoke was correct again, and them my back-stroke is really close to 90. Felt so much better.
A lot of people say they want the longest cranks they can get because longer is better leverage.
While that may be true in theory, I have found that I have not really noticed any loose of power going to the shorter cranks. I can spin faster, climb faster and I have no knee pain.
Actually most of my training and riding I am spinning at 100rpm or higher, and have even done some workout sets above 110rpm for extended periods.
It's a win-win-win for me.
I am actually going to experiment with 140's (and smaller this year) soon and see what kind of metrics I get when compared to the 150's I am riding now.
At really high rpm, the shorter cranks you have, the less your legs are having to go back and forth. That is a big deal when you are going around at 120-150rpm.