Mark's V20

[SamP]

No need to pedal => no pedal induced wobble. Also, road was in good shape and fully suspended donor bike (Trek Y 26).

Just before the end of the video you can see some wobbling, the bunch of parked cars are pretty much at the bottom of the hill so I almost immediately have to start climbing again.

 

[VenRiderGuy]

Nice smooth start!

I second that!

 

[pedlpadl]

I took the beast out on the road yesterday. I picked a stretch of fairly flat road with low traffic and no potholes. I did pretty well, but still a little too white knuckle, and with random veering one way or the other. I'm wondering if I have my boom out too far for a newb. I've seen where a lot of folks start with the boom in and then move it out to the final setting. I feel like my knee bend at extension is about what it was on my DF, and not too bent at flexion.

The other problem I have is, I don't feel centered on the bike. I figured out the headrest bars were bent to one side, and that helped when I fixed it, but I don't feel like my butt and back are centered on the seat and it's throwing my balance off. Does anyone else have that feeling?

 

[ratz]

Center on bike ----> check to make sure the handle bars are level.

Bringing the boom in a bit helps. My final riding position is not as extended as on a DF (I ankle more on a DF), that has to do with the fact that on a DF my hips roll which they don't on the V20. Most people can pedal through the dead spot with their foot aligned toes to the sky; heel to the ground. If you toes are pointed forward the boom is probably too far out; especially true for beginners. Why? Because a pointed forward toe means variable force through the pedal stroke (weak forward, strong back). Vertical toes equals strong power the entire stroke and that make you peal smoother with less foot input. (I learned this watching larry pedal and then tried it; liked it and realized looking at videos that's how we use the Q's during training, just never made note of it before because we do that there to keep people comfortable)

If it's still white knuckle more time in the parking lot will help; even if it's just 20 minutes before you go out and try the hard stuff. Sitting up and pedaling around the car park will give you a lot of feedback as to whether the wobble is from your feet or if it's from Lay back at 20 degrees.

 

[MrSteve]

.... The other problem I have is, I don't feel centered on the bike. I figured out the headrest bars were bent to one side, and that helped when I fixed it, but I don't feel like my butt and back are centered on the seat and it's throwing my balance off. Does anyone else have that feeling?

These FWD MBB bikes teach you how to pedal!
If you are pedaling strongly with your dominant leg, you may need to concentrate on your other leg's performance.
Even power, even pedaling circles and good technique in general is required: These bikes will teach you to pedal smoothly.

Are your legs the same length?
Are the soles of your shoes the same thickness?
Are your feet resting on the same spot on your pedals?
Are your feet the same size?
Also -ahem- your dominant leg may be more developed, more muscular than the other leg.
You could be tensing a bigger gluteus maximus, a more developed buttock and that could be throwing you off centre,
because, you see, you aren't sitting on your 'sit bones' on an upright bike's saddle.
Hope this helps a little and practice more!

 

[pedlpadl]

I think I pedal pretty smoothly.

I shortened the boom 1cm and it seems to help. Also found the headrest bars were still off center.

Thanks for all the help.

 

[pedlpadl]

You might want a bigger chain wheel up front.

Starting to think you're right. I don't use 34/32 or 34/28 - too spinny, unless I get tired on a long climb. I prefer to do starts on 34/25. Also, I spin out sooner than I'd like going downhill. But looking at the gear calculator, you only add a little over one mph at a given cadence. Is it worth it? Not so sure. I'm no racer. Wondering if I'd be better off spending my bike fund elsewhere.

 

[Tinker]

Excellent;




Like everything else; relax and practice. Going down hill is all about a low center of gravity and relaxing. Since you can't put your weight on your feet it's hard to load downward. True of any recumbent.

So on your first hills, focus on putting your weight on you sit bones, let you thigh go heavy as you can; and relax your shoulders. Be deadman heavy like if you are trying to mess with someone trying to carry you. Then coast. It should pretty much look like this video of going 35mph down hill coasting. Much of this video was one handed (itchy nose if I recall correctly).

It you tense up; it does get twitchy; but that's the rider not the bike. The other veterans will confirm that. As you advance you can also go to more narrow handlebars which in turn reduces your leverage and makes it harder to over-correct. The wide handle bars a good for beginners, opinions vary as to whether they are good once you figure it all out.

Thanks for the pointers. I think I was doing the opposite in what little time I got outside with the v20 last year: trying to actively hold everything still.

Sorry for the Necro