New V20 build input
- Thread starter justbob20
- Start date
justbob20
Member
Final thoughts? Thanks for all of the expert input helping me with this build!
TT Aero Qrings 52/36
SRAM Red GXP 10 spd, 165
initially; SRAM 1070 cassettes 11/36 road, 12/28 TT(upgrade when best riding ratio obtained)
SRAM X9 2.1 RD (long)
SRAM Force YAW FD
SRAM Rival DT shifters
FSA SL-K calipers
Woodchipper 2 HB
KMC X10SL gold chain
Zipp 808 front, disc rear for TT
Stages power meter (? clearance issues)
TT Aero Qrings 52/36
SRAM Red GXP 10 spd, 165
initially; SRAM 1070 cassettes 11/36 road, 12/28 TT(upgrade when best riding ratio obtained)
SRAM X9 2.1 RD (long)
SRAM Force YAW FD
SRAM Rival DT shifters
FSA SL-K calipers
Woodchipper 2 HB
KMC X10SL gold chain
Zipp 808 front, disc rear for TT
Stages power meter (? clearance issues)
LarryOz
Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
No probelmo Rick!I'm embarrassedto say I've got over 7200 miles on this chain on the V2.0, it's the original chain I started with last year when I built up the bike
I have found that chains last longer when properly cared for, and the easier they are "used". I rode a single chain on my first V2 for almost a year = 11-12K miles. It was only then that it failed via the chain test tool.
By riding "easy" I mean very few wattages over 500. Anything over that and for extended periods will put more stress on the chain therefore stretching it out.
I also think waxing and staying out of the rain helps a lot too.
..
All the other stuff per Rats, Rick and other -right on the money off course!
They where helping me less than a year ago when trying to build up my V too.
Very good luck to you!
BentAero
Well-Known Member
Using that criteria, my chain will safely last until the year 2082
jond
Zen MBB Master
Rick Youngblood
CarbonCraft Master
Okay, guys, I relieved the the Park Tool go-no-go chain tester today. It has 2 sides - 0.5 and 0 .75 - for the KMC Gold, which side is it? The internet makes this controversial and confusing, as usual.
Currently, the 0.5 side slides on to the chain, but the 0.75 does not.
Currently, the 0.5 side slides on to the chain, but the 0.75 does not.
jond
Zen MBB Master
hi rick i have the park tool cc-2 with the cam mechanism. on a brand new chain it measures usually .5 . when i am able to measure .75 (75% worn out chain and recommended to change for 10/11 speed systems) i change the chain. i am counting on four chains for each cassette and my most pop. chain ring if alloy. there is no way my kmc sl 10 gold chain will last out past 10k. you can use a steel rule measure too to measure a set of links and the net abounds with zealot like discussion and i my opinion is best avoided. go to sheldon brown's website.
there are some instructional u tube videos on the cc-2 can you believe it
it may well be the case i am changing out my chains early but i would rather do that than risk extra needles wear on expensive cassettes and chainrings. heck a xx 11-32 costs over 300 dollars. i only use it as an ornament vs a 60 dollar chain.
i would suggest you measure a new chain against your fitted one. with that many miles on her i would expect it to be replaced. i use oil based not wax based lubricant. wax on mtn bike. maybe i should change........
chain wear and lubes are very contentious matters with no real definitive right or wrong. see sheldon brown.
one thing i always do is to clean and wash my bike and chain regularly (fairweather jon) and always when i do lube after every fourth wash of the chain i lube from the inside to the outside of the chain to not wash the dirt into the chain. crud is generally thrown from front wheels onto the outside of the chain.
rick when you put your new chain on if it slips under load you have left it to long. but from the sounds of it your due diligence has paid off and i should leave my chain on longer..... but i wont.
there are some instructional u tube videos on the cc-2 can you believe it
it may well be the case i am changing out my chains early but i would rather do that than risk extra needles wear on expensive cassettes and chainrings. heck a xx 11-32 costs over 300 dollars. i only use it as an ornament
vs a 60 dollar chain.i would suggest you measure a new chain against your fitted one. with that many miles on her i would expect it to be replaced. i use oil based not wax based lubricant. wax on mtn bike. maybe i should change........
chain wear and lubes are very contentious matters with no real definitive right or wrong. see sheldon brown.
one thing i always do is to clean and wash my bike and chain regularly (fairweather jon) and always when i do lube after every fourth wash of the chain i lube from the inside to the outside of the chain to not wash the dirt into the chain. crud is generally thrown from front wheels onto the outside of the chain.
rick when you put your new chain on if it slips under load you have left it to long. but from the sounds of it your due diligence has paid off and i should leave my chain on longer..... but i wont.
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
First check your tool on a brand new chain... The tool's .5 should not fit on a new chain. IF it does then replace at .75. If it does not fit on at .5 then the following applies. (There are different tools and you didn't say which one you have).
Live in the hills and climb a lot under load change it at .5
Live in florida and ride for hours without shifting. change it at .75
Find yourself in between the extremes? Pick one, use it and be consistent. If your cassette wears out in under 6-7k miles use .5 because you aren't changing chains enough.
I change chains each spring. Two chains per bike rotated every 500 miles or so.
((This was far cheaper when Mrs Ratz was a low wattage wossie girl, now it's 2 chains x 4 bikes = 8 flipping chains; but I still do it.).
A chain is far cheaper than the rings and cassettes it destroys.
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Rick Youngblood
CarbonCraft Master
Thanks guys - chain get replaced...that's a no brainier. Its cost is much easier to chock down than a set of Rotor Q-Rings and a modded cassette with 42t sprocket for sure.
This is all new to me, I've never had a bike long enough to wear out component parts. At this point I'm hoping I'm in it for the chain only, for now at least! I've gone through tire like crazy.
I will check the old against the new...curious about that too.
JustBob, apologies for the hi-jacked thread!
This is all new to me, I've never had a bike long enough to wear out component parts. At this point I'm hoping I'm in it for the chain only, for now at least! I've gone through tire like crazy.
I will check the old against the new...curious about that too.
JustBob, apologies for the hi-jacked thread!
jond
Zen MBB Master
hi rick i re read your post and now understand park make a chain tool called in fact the "go - no- go" ahhhh . which is different to my cc-2 and possibly a better option. cheaper and sturdy.
mate if it did not fit at .75 indicating 75% wear then you are fine. i cant believe you guys (rick and larry) get such huge great miles out of a chain. still that is a whole other thread......
i may buy another cheaper chain check tool to check the chain check tool
and justbob sorry too i cant believe how badly the hi-jacking was here......
Rick Youngblood
CarbonCraft Master
Hey Jon...I checked my Silvio with the chain checker which currently has 3600 miles on it's chain (same as Vendetta KMC Gold) and found .5% will not fit. The new replacement chain should arrive tomorrow.
Bob, what do you think
? I may start buying your used chains as replacements for my almost worn out chains?
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Oops never hit POST
SRAM Red ---> Compact 110BCD recommended
165MM good starting point.
Rival DT Shifters make sure you get matching 10sp; but the 10speed flavor the Forces shift much more crispy. It's not until the 11sp version that the rival and force are indistinguishable.
Stage Power meter. Save your money; I've concluded that there are issue with the V20 seating angle and the Stages doesn't read accurately. You get alot of ZEROs when you pull on the pedals. Save up for the Power Tap P1 Pedals; as long as you like "look" style pedals. Plenty of option though and you don't need to decide that right away.
I know nothing about FSA Calipers. My favorite is the newer Ultegra 6800 ones which fit the frame well and the clamping power is incredible. I especially like being able to mount the rear brake in the upper mount position for better aero and to leave room for a long distance food bag.
BB is missing from your list....
Wheels?
Pardon the typos I gotta run and get wheels to fedex for new owner
SRAM Red ---> Compact 110BCD recommended
165MM good starting point.
Rival DT Shifters make sure you get matching 10sp; but the 10speed flavor the Forces shift much more crispy. It's not until the 11sp version that the rival and force are indistinguishable.
Stage Power meter. Save your money; I've concluded that there are issue with the V20 seating angle and the Stages doesn't read accurately. You get alot of ZEROs when you pull on the pedals. Save up for the Power Tap P1 Pedals; as long as you like "look" style pedals. Plenty of option though and you don't need to decide that right away.
I know nothing about FSA Calipers. My favorite is the newer Ultegra 6800 ones which fit the frame well and the clamping power is incredible. I especially like being able to mount the rear brake in the upper mount position for better aero and to leave room for a long distance food bag.
BB is missing from your list....
Wheels?
Pardon the typos I gotta run and get wheels to fedex for new owner
jond
Zen MBB Master
Hey Jon...I checked my Silvio with the chain checker which currently has 3600 miles on it's chain (same as Vendetta KMC Gold) and found .5% will not fit. The new replacement chain should arrive tomorrow.
Bob, what do you think
hmm rick i think the quality control of park's chain check tools may be wanting.....
my cc-2 park tool says .5 is a new chain. replace chain at .75
any new chain i have put on have always like ratz's started around the .5 mark no matter the brand kmc gold/ sram 1091r/ shimano xtr-durace.
and i dutifully change them at .75....so yes like bob i may indeed be changing the chain out early.
however when i got my first 9 speed mtn bike i assumed chain wear to be the same as 7-8 speed. i was wrong wrong wrong. i have a 7 speed with over 45k on it and it is still in spec. heck some of the old oil bath chains lasted the life of the bike.....
but this was not the case albeit i was heavily into mountain biking rocky sandy single trail in any weather. the next thing i knew i was climbing out of a creek gully and the chain slipped. when i looked at the sprocket teeth i could identify that they had moved forward. ouch new sprockets new cassette new chain new lesson re- learnt. less the 2500klm on the drive train shimano xt wax gold lube. so never again. i expect now 4 chains per cluster.
telling that my mileage is in accord with my cycling mates i.e 3000klm out of a road df chain. 9000klm out of a trike chain basicly 3 chains. and so far 6200klm on the vendetta. i put the extra wear life of the vendetta's chain down to the superior chain and position on the bike . i am a fair weather rider. and this is the first chain on the vendetta but not my first kmc gold sl
i am truly astounded by your chain life rick and larry. let us know how you get on with the new chain and what you find. most interesting indeed.
maybe i have been buying bob's old chains from the get go
MrSteve
Zen MBB Master
Wheels?
These are bicycles, ladies and gentlemen: Two wheelers.
My used V is on stock Cruzbike 'aero 67' wheels.
As far as I know, this bike has been used hard and has gone down hard at least twice in it's life.
The Cruzbike wheels spin very, very freely.
The bearings are in great shape.
There is a lot of life left in the rims, a lot of material on the braking surfaces.
Both wheels spin absolutely true; all of the spokes ring the way that they should.
The free hub is a work of art, sounds and works flawlessly and looks unworn under the cassette.
These wheels are a bargain.
The Mavic Kyserium wheels I got are almost as nice as the Cruzbike Aero 67s.
Their bearings are new and the seals slow their spin.
The rims seem strong, but they're neither as aero nor as strong as the Cruzbike wheels.
The freehub works well, but doesn't quite have the bling-factor of the Cruzbike freehub .
They are a bit lighter.
They are quite a bit more expensive, I think.
And of course, tires.
Tires are where the rubber meets the road... sorry.
These are bicycles, ladies and gentlemen: Two wheelers.
My used V is on stock Cruzbike 'aero 67' wheels.
As far as I know, this bike has been used hard and has gone down hard at least twice in it's life.
The Cruzbike wheels spin very, very freely.
The bearings are in great shape.
There is a lot of life left in the rims, a lot of material on the braking surfaces.
Both wheels spin absolutely true; all of the spokes ring the way that they should.
The free hub is a work of art, sounds and works flawlessly and looks unworn under the cassette.
These wheels are a bargain.
The Mavic Kyserium wheels I got are almost as nice as the Cruzbike Aero 67s.
Their bearings are new and the seals slow their spin.
The rims seem strong, but they're neither as aero nor as strong as the Cruzbike wheels.
The freehub works well, but doesn't quite have the bling-factor of the Cruzbike freehub .
They are a bit lighter.
They are quite a bit more expensive, I think.
And of course, tires.
Tires are where the rubber meets the road... sorry.
A quick note - the FSA SL-K calipers will also mount in the upper hole and still have cable clearance, so no worries there. Both those and the ones ratz listed are very good. At that level its more about aesthetics IMHO.
Eric Winn
Zen MBB Master
Hmmm, I haven't noticed my Stages doing that. Was this with round rings or elliptical? Mine are round. For Just Bob's reference my setup is Vendetta version 2, SRAM 53x39 and 11x36 (Type II) with 170mm cranks. I too like the Cruzbike Aero 67 wheels.
