ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Same.
Q ring upgrade - Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh......
- Thread starter Robert Holler
- Start date
Same.
LarryOz
Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
Obviously more testing is needed on my end now that I have QXL Q-rings too. I road the regular ones in Calvins on the #1 setting, but I just set it there because reading the instructions I wanted more speed on the flats. I am not really sure if it gave it too me. I am waiting for my summer vacation at the beach: June 27 - July 4th to start. I am hoping to spend a significant amount of time each day testing various components against each other. Mrs. Oz will go to the beach, I'll go riding and collecting data! Can't wait!
BentAero
Well-Known Member
Ok Q-ring guru's, my goal was to set the big ring on #3 (of 4) and small ring on #4 (of 4).
Yes, I know only two bolts are in place, and they aren't tight.
Chain is on cassette cog 3 (third largest)
First photo is at full leg extension.
Second photo is backed up 73 degrees per one of those clever app thingy's.
Am I even close?
Yes, I know only two bolts are in place, and they aren't tight.
Chain is on cassette cog 3 (third largest)
First photo is at full leg extension.
Second photo is backed up 73 degrees per one of those clever app thingy's.
Am I even close?
LarryOz
Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
You've got it Gary, your set up on #3 on the big ring. If you're #4 on the small ring is directly behind the #3 on the big ring, then you are good there too.
Hey, you're all ready for a ride now - lets me at the "super secret test track facilty" - 6am - manana!
Hey, you're all ready for a ride now - lets me at the "super secret test track facilty" - 6am - manana!
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Here' your verification:
At dead spot on OCP#3 first tooth to disengage is #1. Opposite side first full Link+ tooth to be engage is on the line from #1.
If setting up on #2 that would be reversed. Looks good. Let us know how the out of phase shifting works. And give it 200-400 miles before you tweak; it will take that long to acclimatize.
At dead spot on OCP#3 first tooth to disengage is #1. Opposite side first full Link+ tooth to be engage is on the line from #1.
If setting up on #2 that would be reversed. Looks good. Let us know how the out of phase shifting works. And give it 200-400 miles before you tweak; it will take that long to acclimatize.
Last edited:
ReklinedRider
Zen MBB Master
So, with the pic of Gary's crank moved back the 73deg from dead spot his tallest tooth is supposed to be the one just becoming fully engaged in the chain, do i have that correct? If so, is that tooth the one above TW (on his chainring), the one between EP and CH, or the one above the D in GRANTED? Or another one? Oy vey! This makes me crosseyed.
Gary good luck on that butt-est whoopin-est! Is that in the KJV somewhere?
Gary good luck on that butt-est whoopin-est! Is that in the KJV somewhere?
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Nope. Ignore that picture; what happens at 73 deg is variable depending on that you are setting up on the OCP preference and it's not reliable. Only look that the deadspot photo; rotor is designed around the dead spot. Rotor believes that full power is position+inertia so they tend to disregard the 73 fix position theory; and they consider it as occurring over a range and OCP 1-5 allow you to tweak the acceleration of increased power over that range.
ReklinedRider
Zen MBB Master
Yikes. Ok. So the John Tolhurst method (70 deg back from dbc) is no good. Great. Everything i thought i kinda sorta understood is out the window. Back to the garage (workshop) :-(
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Well only a little let me try and explain.
JT's method is valid for the elliptical rings that are on the quest; and it can work for the Qring if you are short....It can get you a single 1 time working setup, but it can also get you the wrong OCP at a starting point and you wouldn't be able to correct tweak the position for your goals.
Basically it is just a fluke that a lot of us get the PRE-MARKED holes directly on the bolt. On a recumbent that's not always going to happen. A tall person might get an unmarked hole that is 3 positions over instead. When that happens they will have to mark NEW custom labels for OCP1-5 on their ring and use those instead of the factory marks. IF you don't do the dead spot you won't get those correct and you then can't use the 5 holes of variable adjustment.
If you look at my red line it verifies' that Gary's ring has the tooth that intersects "1" correctly positioned. It just so happens that his 3 hole is on the bolt. If he was taller the "1" line could be aligned such that the hole on the bolt could be two positions to the left of the factory marked number "3" if that is the case that unmarked hole that is physically on the bolt becomes the new "3" and you have to figure out where the new relative 1,2,4,5 holes are by counting holes; and marking them with a sharpie marker.
ReklinedRider
Zen MBB Master
I see what you're saying about getting your OCP holes marked correctly for later tweaking.
Are you setting up the factory marked 1 position per the Rotor recumbent instructions, and then subsequent personal 2, 1, and 3? Or are you using another method?
Are you setting up the factory marked 1 position per the Rotor recumbent instructions, and then subsequent personal 2, 1, and 3? Or are you using another method?
ReklinedRider
Zen MBB Master
Never mind Going to start from scratch and count holes etc etc. It will be interesting to see how it turns out compared to current set up. A good excuse to put off cleaning and waxing chains on the other bikes
Going to start from scratch and count holes etc etc. It will be interesting to see how it turns out compared to current set up. A good excuse to put off cleaning and waxing chains on the other bikes
LarryOz
Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
No regrets at all Gary - I'll tell you all my secrets. The one you didn't mention: Ride like a "mad-man" (for about 100 minutes or more at or above your threshold limit) at least 3 days a week, with rest in-between days.
Oh yeah - You also have to put some "cool decals" on your new deep dish wheels now. It makes them turn faster for some reason. I am pretty sure that is why my "Cruzbike 88's" are fast than my solid discs.
Yeah - Gary - you need to stop reading the KJV so much -
You know I'm at my low point now, so you should be able to whup me pretty good.
I am planning on doing some fast laps at Carrier Park this Sat - 6am.
We'll do a 1 Mile TT, then a 40K TT.
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
If your "slow" wheels need a home donations are welcome
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Never mind
No worries here's a photo reference for those following along.
So much Q ring goodness! Here is a shot of my Q's in action:
Abbott Smith
Guru
Yep. Really does need a red cog.
BentAero
Well-Known Member
Gary good luck on that butt-est whoopin-est! Is that in the KJV somewhere?
Uhh, that's Gary chapter 4, verse 1 for those following along...
