Q ring upgrade - Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh......

jond

Zen MBB Master
oh
No regrets at all Gary - I'll tell you all my secrets. The one you didn't mention: Ride like a "mad-man" (for about 100 minutes or more at or above your threshold limit) at least 3 days a week, with rest in-between days.
Oh yeah - You also have to put some "cool decals" on your new deep dish wheels now. It makes them turn faster for some reason. I am pretty sure that is why my "Cruzbike 88's" are fast than my solid discs.


Yeah - Gary - you need to stop reading the KJV so much - :)
You know I'm at my low point now, so you should be able to whup me pretty good.
I am planning on doing some fast laps at Carrier Park this Sat - 6am.
We'll do a 1 Mile TT, then a 40K TT.
gary i think you may be in trouble.......... a bit. still thoust mighteth draft thine larry q rings and all for the duration. just remove larry's mirrors :)
 

Happyrider

Member
I am contemplating making the jump to Q-rings and shorter cranks. I currently have 53/39 rings and was thinking of going with 50/34 Q-rings. I only have 11/28 on the RD due to Di2 limit and I could use a lower gear for climbing. Am I right in assuming that the Ultegra Di2 can handle Q-rings?

Re cranks, I currently have Ultegra 6870 175 mm cranks, 4-bolt, 110 BCD. I was thinking of getting 150 mm cranks, which, according to the WISIL "Recumbent Crank Length Calculator," give me a knee angle of 89 degrees. I have contacted Bikesmith about sourcing short cranks. It seems that Q-rings can be ordered for either 110 or 130 BCD. Is there any advantage to one or the other?

Is there anything in particular that I need to be aware of?
 

JOSEPHWEISSERT

Zen MBB Master
I had circular 53/39 rings and 170 mm cranks. I now have 53/38 Q-rings and 150 mm cranks. My cassette is still 11-28. I am 5'-9.5". I've got it tuned in nicely, and it is working really well - except for slow, steep climbs. It's not really hilly around here, but when I have to climb anything steep, I am maxed out in my low gearing. That's okay for short climbs, but I would be in trouble if I had to climb any big hills - as when I go ride anywhere else. I have 5-bolt, 110 BCD Q-rings. I bought a 34-tooth Q-ring so that I could improve my low-end gearing. I put the new Q-ring on and tested it. It shifts nicely from 53 to 34 and back with the chainring derailleur. But the chain is loose when in the 11-tooth cog and the 34-tooth Q-ring. I can't shorten the chain because my cassette derailleur is maxed out on the 53-tooth Q-ring and 28-tooth cog. So my next step is to get a long cassette derailleur. Then I expect to have to get a SRAM brifter, because I "think" my Dura Ace brifter is not compatible with the SRAM 10-speed long cage X.7 type 2 derailleur. And then, is the Dura Ace 10-speed 11/28 cassette compatible with a SRAM brifter?

So maybe somebody can chime in here with some recommendations to point us both in the right direction.

EDIT: I got what I needed from these posts: http://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/installed-sram-x7-type-2-rear-deraileur.8446/ and http://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/drivetrain-suggestions.8468/#post-108902
 
Last edited:

BentAero

Well-Known Member
Am I right in assuming that the Ultegra Di2 can handle Q-rings?

Larry has the extreme QXL version on his red V running di2. Butter.
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Am I right in assuming that the Ultegra Di2 can handle Q-rings?

Larry has the extreme QXL version on his red V running di2. Butter.

Ditto we have two di2 setup. One running 52/36 and one 52/34.

The first is paired with a 12-28 Durace cassette and a short cage di2 and the later is pair with 11-32 ultegra Casette and the medium cage "gs" di2

I shifted last night under a 800 watt climbing load. Little to big ring and up 3 cassette steps simultaneously with no problem smooth as silk
 
Last edited:

LarryOz

Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
54 big ring on QXL and 32 tooth large ring on cassette. Handles big-big, and little-little.
Amazing!
 

Happyrider

Member
I see that Rotor offers 150 mm cranks (3D+). Am I right in assuming that they can't be used on the Vendetta because they also mount on the external bearing cups of the bottom bracket?
 

Jeremy S

Dude
I see that Rotor offers 150 mm cranks (3D+). Am I right in assuming that they can't be used on the Vendetta because they also mount on the external bearing cups of the bottom bracket?
Not sure what you're looking at but cranks go through the inside of the bottom bracket, nothing else should clamp to the outside of the bearings like the Cruzbike frame does. They should work fine.
 

JOSEPHWEISSERT

Zen MBB Master

BentAero

Well-Known Member
See, those Q-rings have got me beating Larry already.
Screenshot_2015-06-04-21-27-09_zpspiluv37g.png



Never mind that this segment is almost all downhill. Don't let the facts get in the way of a good story. ;)

Btw, Mark this on your calender kids; this is likely the one and only time you'll ever see my name listed above Larry's :eek:
 

super slim

Zen MBB Master
Mark is one of the few gentlemen left in the biking industry, who asks lots of questions to give you the best and cheapest product possible, while teaching you about shorter cranks and correct chainring alignment and fitting!
 

ReklinedRider

Zen MBB Master
Only look at the deadspot photo; rotor is designed around the dead spot.

Followed Rotor's recumbent instructions (I hope). Is this in the ballpark?

(**The hole that now has 4 silver Sharpie dots above it is the factory-etched 1 hole.**)

With the right crank at the dead spot I put the ring on the spider so that the tooth-trough directly in line with the factory 1 is the first trough to fully engage a roller on the chain. Using their definition of 'my OCP hole' I marked it as the 2 (directly in line with the crank). Then counted 17 holes clockwise from my OCP 2 and marked it as the new 1. Next hole clockwise is the new 3; both are now covered by the crank. I'm guessing this is due to this being a Sofrider which has a lower bottom bracket than Silvio or Vendetta. I know, crazy to put q rings on a Sofrider; this has become my 'experiment till i get things right before moving on to S30 or V20' bike. 'Nuff about that.

I lack the computer skills to draw a line on my photo but when i lay a straightedge across it, it looks like the trough directly across from the factory 1 hole is the one where the chain is just beginning to disengage the chainring. Inner ring mounted 'in phase' with outer. I marked the factory 1 hole as 4 because on the q ring the factory-etched 4 is the first hole clockwise past the 2. May be wrong to do that. Sharpie wipes off with alcohol or Chain Bright :)

For now, I'm totally ignoring the ~70deg back from dead spot stuff. Does this look close? Need to advance or retard the chainring? Totally out to lunch? :confused::mad::confused: Any suggestions appreciated.

Apologies for picture quality, taken in the dead of night in the garage with an iphone.image.jpg
 
Last edited:

LarryOz

Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
Btw, Mark this on your calender kids; this is likely the one and only time you'll ever see my name listed above Larry's :eek:
I saw that last night Gary - Congrats! You are just getting faster and faster every day.
I might have to run out at lunch and see if I can get any closer to your time. ;)
We'll have to meet up at Carrier Park on Saturday for sure now! :)
 
Last edited:
Plunge taken:
upload_2015-6-5_19-47-48.png

Had the shop install the new brifter and the Q rings while they were at it. Started with 4 in the forum position and it's working so far. All gears available. Only issue is a chain rub on the front derailleur in some gears.

Been off the bike for 2 days. While the wobble is still there, its intensity seems to be much less - it's easier to control. Not sure if that's the time off or the Q rings.

Bike shop said they had several customers ask about it while they had it. One was interested enough to ask how to get one.
 
Top