Q ring upgrade - Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh......

super slim

Zen MBB Master
Rick
I thought as did Marc that this was a very interesting read.

********Below is from the BROL thread - permission given by seemark2 *********

This was posted by me, 3/7/'15 on BROL: (While still on the 1st 1000 mi. MBB learning curve)

http://www.bentrideronline.com/messa...96844#poststop

I have tested extensively the following on my M5 CHR:
1) Rotorcrank RS4X cranks
2) Rotor Q-rings
3) Rotor QXL rings
4) Doval rings
5) Osymentric rings

My criteria was solely which gave the highest speed average with the least exhaustion. Not too scientific, but that was my only concern.

Note: We don't have a lot of rolling hills in South Florida, but the course includes 4 large hwy overpasses, so gradients were included. I regularly ride this course twice a week with a group of roadies.

Note: I am not a "masher" with big powerful legs. I am a "spinner" and keep a higher cadence.
Rankings:
1) Rotorcrank RS4X - gave the best overall speed/performance ratio. Note: The cranks were blueprinted for max efficiency via Airwolf's friction reduction process.
2) Rotor Q-rings- About 90% as efficient as the RS4X, good for a normal/to higher cadence
3) Doval rings- Interestingly no "dead spot" as with the Osymetrics, but not index-able either, but overall gave good performance, almost as good as the Q-rings
4) Rotor QXL- Definitely for mashers or very powerful riders. Tended to be suited for lower cadences but definitely required more effort, I was more exhausted at the end of the ride. Note: Might be good for a MBB (moving bottom bracket) recumbent. I will give these a try again once I'm better on my Vendetta.
5) Osymetrics- The worst of the bunch. They do increase power somewhat, but exaggerate the dead spot, even more than just a round ring. There are riders who have gotten used to them but I found them inferior to any of the other four above

10/10/'15

Having ridden my Vendetta now about the same amount of time as my M5 CHR, I thought I'd post my findings on regular q-rings vs QXL q-rings. (The QXL rings have a more extreme ovalization than the regular ones.) Setting on both types of rings for the test is on the regulation point 2.

The course and conditions are exactly the same as was previously written, my conditioning has remained consistent for the last 8 yrs or so, for clarification purposes.

Note: Rotorcranks cannot be installed on a Vendetta, due to the bottom bracket mounts. So only the Rotor rings have been tested on the V. Doval rings are not indexable, so were not used on this test. The Osymetrics are also not indexable and gave poor performance on the last two rear wheel dr recumbents I tried them on, (Metabike and CHR), so I didn't bother with them either.

Initially I used round rings the 1st 500 miles or so while learning on the V, as I knew I did not have a baseline nor did I ride the M5 since riding the V, so my autonomic responses wouldn't get confused.

At 500 miles I did not feel I could power down hard yet, but had been riding in a paceline for a couple hundered miles.

Switching to the regular q-rings at 500 mi gave immediate smoothness, not so much as usual on the small (44t) crankring as on a rwd, but the large ring (53t) felt real good, better than when on the rear wheel dr. (I have used a 44/53 combo for the last few years, I found it quite suitable for the predominately flat roads we have here.)

For the next 1000 mi I found myself using the 53t gear as much as possible, the compensation is greater the larger the diameter I think. This is opposite of what I used on the CHR, I rarely used the large ring, only going downhills. (I can sprint up to 31 mph in the 44t ring before cadence gets too high) (Running 700c wheels, 11/28 rear cassette on both bikes)

That got me wondering if the Vendetta was just that much more efficient? To me it feels more efficient, mechanically or ergonomically, or maybe both, still not sure and the debate would go on forever no doubt.

I know the 44t QXL ring on the M5 required too much effort, maybe it would be the ticket on the V? So, I installed it about 300 mi ago. Immediately it was WOW! More responsive, smoother, AND more power! Much easier to maintain a higher cadence with less effort. My average speed is up about 1mph, I don't get winded as much going uphill, my legs are not as sore after a ride, nor do they take as long to recuperate. Win, win, and Win! It feels like a new bike!

Anyway, I thought I would share this with you all. Not trying to convince anyone of anything thing, and as always, your mileage my vary.

If anyone feels inclined to post this on the Cruzbike forum please, feel free, I can't log on anymore since they changed it without changing my email address.
,
Thanks for copying to the cruzbike site as it is a very good review of bent chainrings!
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Found this on PowerTap support website
http://www.powertap.com/support/faqs/p1-pedals#p1-oval-chainrings


DO THE P1 PEDALS SUPPORT OVAL/NON-ROUND CHAINRINGS?

Non-round rings are supported perfectly with the P1. We are taking 40 individual angular velocity measurements and subsequently 40 power measurements per pedal stroke. Any acceleration/deceleration within a pedal stroke would be measured. Other systems assume constant angular velocity, which typically reports [higher] power when using non-round rings.
 

LarryOz

Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
DO THE P1 PEDALS SUPPORT OVAL/NON-ROUND CHAINRINGS?

Non-round rings are supported perfectly with the P1. We are taking 40 individual angular velocity measurements and subsequently 40 power measurements per pedal stroke. Any acceleration/deceleration within a pedal stroke would be measured. Other systems assume constant angular velocity, which typically reports [higher] power when using non-round rings.
I'll have to through this over the wall to Garmin and see if I can get a straight answer from them...
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Sneak peak of stuff going on else where.

After checking with Rotor, they highly endorse making your Small Chain Ring a QXL and your Big ring a traditional Q-ring. For the etap build I came up short on Derailleur capacity by 2 teeth. The etap is short-cage and rated for 31 teeth and my old 52/36 + 11-28T Cassette q-ring setup needed 33. So I swapped out the 36T Qring with a 38T QXL ring; to get down to 31 teeth, while still have the same effective "granny" diameter on the inner ring. The minor diameter of the 38T QXL = 36T Q-ring. Side effect better shifting and now chain rub on the inside of big ring when cross chaining little to little. According to rotor this should climb a little better. I have not field tested it yet obviously; but on the bike stand it's a definite win.
 

Rick Youngblood

CarbonCraft Master
How do Q rings hold up. I am interested but if they have to be changed every ten thousand miles, I think it would be expensive.
Good question. I have 9,883.1 (did I just write that :eek:) on my Vendetta with double Q's. They seem to still be going strong, no chain slipped, no broken teeth, etc. I'm not sure how to check wear, but the way I think is; "if it ain't broke don't fix it". I may be wrong, but I don't see why they would not last as long as standard rings - I would imagine to get the most miles out of them, keep the chain in good working order waxed or oiled and replace it before it wears.
 

LarryOz

Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
How do Q rings hold up. I am interested but if they have to be changed every ten thousand miles, I think it would be expensive.
I've not really kept really good track of my mileage, but looking back at Strava when I got my first Cruzbike in June of 2014: I logged 8200 in the rest of 2014, 13,000 for 2015, and 6,000 so far this year. That's ~27K miles, and I would say that well over 20K of those miles have been on my Q-rings. I'm with Rick - not sure how to check wear, but I'd be willing to be that if you have bad enough wear, you chain is going to start skipping or catching really badly.
I think that I get awesome longevity of my chains, cassettes, and chain rings because I wax my chains. I'm basically riding the same cassette most of those miles too, and maybe only on my 3rd chain.
For what its worth: I do do a lot of indoors riding, so I am out of the elements a lot too, so that is bound to help.
 

LMT

Well-Known Member
Good question. I have 9,883.1 (did I just write that :eek:) on my Vendetta with double Q's. They seem to still be going strong, no chain slipped, no broken teeth, etc. I'm not sure how to check wear, but the way I think is; "if it ain't broke don't fix it". I may be wrong, but I don't see why they would not last as long as standard rings - I would imagine to get the most miles out of them, keep the chain in good working order waxed or oiled and replace it before it wears.

The teeth on the chainring would be pointy like sharks teeth with a slight wavey look to them.

chainring.png

This will mostly come about riding with a chain that is worn, as it does not sit square between the sprocket teeth which is why you get wear. In fact 99% of drivetrain woes ime comes from a worn chain. The wear will increase if the chain is not lubed.

Handy tool to have is a chain wear tool:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...EEoq8nt1ueRg20puVOEo8aApg78P8HAQ&gclsrc=aw.ds

Or if you are old school use a metal rule.

As long as you check the chain periodically and change when needed there is no reason why your drivetrain should not last a long time. Long as in years.:)
 

hoyden

Well-Known Member

DavidCH

In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
I am orbiting the Q Ring upgrade for my Silvio. Ratz provided a recommendation for a suitable Q ring.
http://www.jensonusa.com/Rotor-Q-Ring-Road-Chainring-110BCD-5Bolt
I see there is also a QXL available
http://www.jensonusa.com/Chainrings-2/Rotor-QXL-110BCD-Chainrings
for about $50 more. I would like to understand the options and whether or not to choose the QXL. Is there a case for either?

Is this a situation where some (Q) is good, and more (QXL) is better?
The QXL are more faster, more aero :D:D:D
 

DavidCH

In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
Fastness is good, more fastness is better
When I first got the Vendetta I put 23mm tyres on. The roads are so bad I had to go to the dentist, also the view in the mirror was a blur because my head was vibrating so. I will never forget this and at the same time I had a big big truck overtaking me. The 23's came straight off. I then put 28's on (compass pass chinook)... You could almost put a Starbucks coffee holder on the handlebar, they were a perfect tour leisure tyre. This season I turned it up a notch and went back down to 26 tubeless. With tubeless you don't have to have so much pressure so it's forgiving but more aero. I do notice more vibration so that's why I improvised with my neck rest.

image.jpeg
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
I am orbiting the Q Ring upgrade for my Silvio. Ratz provided a recommendation for a suitable Q ring.
http://www.jensonusa.com/Rotor-Q-Ring-Road-Chainring-110BCD-5Bolt
I see there is also a QXL available
http://www.jensonusa.com/Chainrings-2/Rotor-QXL-110BCD-Chainrings
for about $50 more. I would like to understand the options and whether or not to choose the QXL. Is there a case for either?

Is this a situation where some (Q) is good, and more (QXL) is better?

QXL - better for mashers, they are also harder to adapt to.

These day I like the Q for the Big ring and the QXL for the little ring.


Rotor recommends that first time adopters start with the standard Q's adapt; evaluate and progress. Of course that means they also sell more product; so you have to factor that into.


https://rotorbike.com/products/road/q-rings-or-qxl_174


rotor_476223217.jpg
 

LarryOz

Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
QXL - better for mashers, they are also harder to adapt to.
These day I like the Q for the Big ring and the QXL for the little ring.
FWIW:
I have both, and frankly I could not tell a huge difference between the 2.
The QXL make shifting a little "less" nice from little to bit ring.
I'm just riding the regular now - and have not even used the little ring but once since last October when I took my FD off
 

hoyden

Well-Known Member
I like the Q for the Big ring and the QXL for the little ring.
I have the Q for the little ring. Looking over the chart I cannot see any compelling reason to buy a big QXL. Virtually all of my ride is flat and seated climbing. I don't do standing climbing and not big on sprints. I am trying to move my cadence towards spinning and away for mashing. I use the little ring for less than 0.5 mile in a 45 mile ride.
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
I have the Q for the little ring. Looking over the chart I cannot see any compelling reason to buy a big QXL. Virtually all of my ride is flat and seated climbing. I don't do standing climbing and not big on sprints. I am trying to move my cadence towards spinning and away for mashing. I use the little ring for less than 0.5 mile in a 45 mile ride.

50T 110BCD from R&A is about the best prices and compatible with your setup

https://www.racycles.com/equipment/...AejI1OPndhv2PZl5nmfQbwIEsVa83ImRzTBoCmcPw_wcB
 

DavidCH

In thought; expanding the paradigm of traversity
I have an incredibly big 54t Q ring. It certainly attracts a lot of attention. Its got "made in Spain" written on it in English, now that's plain funny. I kept it because I think it's a good training aid and if I got guts I can use it to go mega fast down the hills. If I was racing I would swap out the ultegra crank and go SRAM with a 150 crank length and with a 52t Q Ring. But SRAM is a different fit. I didn't have much choice at the time as Rotor only gave the QXL type aero for the Shimano ultegra crank. I didn't want to spend too much so I bought a decent Groupset and tried my best with it. I have a great bike and I luv my life. I think one can be too serious in this business. Best to be happy.
image.jpeg
 
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