Quest 1.0 upgrade query - Brakes

F

footsore.tramp

Member
Hello,

I've had my Quest for a few months now.
I've passed the smitten stage and would now like to start tweaking.
First up is brakes.
The Tektro Aquillas are not floating my boat and I'm thinking of moving to a hydraulic set-up.
Has anyone done this, or something similar, previously?
Any guidance towards a suitable, yet not bank breaking, set-up would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Bill
 
ThomasW

ThomasW

New Member
I installed simple Shimanos (Deore BR-T615). So far, I am very content. Next time, I would choose two-finger brake levers (BR-M...)
 
ratz

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
The TRP HY/RD work good on the 1.0 frame; you have to file down the paint just a smidgen and then they fit great.
 
rfneep

rfneep

Well-Known Member
The TRP Spyre self-centering mechanical brakes work great on my V3 Quest. Quiet, strong, and easy centering without going to hydraulics.. Super Slim indicates they'll also work on a V1. However, if you are keeping long-pull brake levers, you'll want to consider the TRP Spyke instead. Spyke for mountain bike brake levers, and Spyre for Road brake levers. Otherwise pretty equivalent.
 
F

footsore.tramp

Member
Thanks for all the replies.
TRP Spyke looks like the winner.
A dual action cable will be enough for me.

I'm going to ask for a little hand holding through this as it the first time I've gone about this type of thing.
Now, I found a pair that comes with a 160mm and a 180mm rotor.
Currently I'm only using a 160mm on both the front and the back.
Would there be an issue with me using the 160/180 set-up instead of what I have now?

Also, I figure that I should grab some cables and housing while I am at it.
Does anyone have any suggestions?

Cheers,
Bill
 
F

footsore.tramp

Member
Done,
At least the calipers and rotors.
$166.88 AU for the pair, for the curious.
I'll see how they go with the current cables and then change if needed.

I was also bothered by the microshift grip shifts.
They were very easy to accidentally shift and no matter how often I adjusted there were always some trouble gears.
So, I've decided to swap to Sunrace SLM10 friction thumb shifters.
I've never really clicked (sorry) with indexing, and it will be good for trimming the front.
 
super slim

super slim

Zen MBB Master
You can mix the disk of one supplier with a different brake applicator, as long as you check that the disk outside diameter is just past the brake pads, so the pads wear evenly over the whole pad.

When looking at the front hand brake load for a rear wheel lift off the ground, or a rear wheel lock up, then the 185/140 combination is good, as 10 kg.f on 185 mm (OR 12 kg.f on 160 mm ) front, creates 0.6 G deceleration, and 7 kg.f on 140 mm rear, creates 0.3 G deceleration, if the front OR rear are used by its self.

If using an Avid MTB adjustable brake lever, with the cable adjusted to the max. height, so max. cable movement, and minimum mechanical advantage of 1.6 compared to the standard Brake lever of 1.9, then the Rear brake force for lock up is 8 Kg.f instead of 7 kg.f

When using the front and rear brakes, the rear wheel is unloaded proportionally to the max. front brake handle force applied, so the rear wheel locks up with less brake force than if applying the rear brake only.

This a LOT better than for a Vendetta with rim brakes 24 kg.f front hand brake pull for 0.7 G deceleration before the rear wheel lifts off the ground, and 10 kg.f rear hand brake pull for 0.3 G before the rear wheel locks up, if applied by itself.
Disks on a Vendetta with 160 mm front disk brakes 14 kg.f front hand brake pull for 0.7 G deceleration before the rear wheel lifts off the ground, and with a 140 mm rear disk, 7 kg.f rear hand brake pull for 0.3 G before the rear wheel locks up, if applied by itself.
 
ratz

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
footsore.tramp said:
Currently I'm only using a 160mm on both the front and the back.
Click to expand...
super slim said:
When looking at the front hand brake load for a rear wheel lift off the ground, or a rear wheel lock up, then the 185/140 combination is good, as 10 kg.f on 185 mm (OR 12 kg.f on 160 mm ) front, creates 0.6 G deceleration, and 7 kg.f on 140 mm rear, creates 0.3 G deceleration, if the front OR rear are used by its self.
Click to expand...

180 might be tight on the front on the old Q1 you might have to file a bit. I find 160 front, 140 back is plenty for a Quest. I find that any more than a 140 on the back of a Quest leads to back wheel lockups and on a Recumbent that's a bad thing unless you enjoy going sideways down a hill. (yep I have done it at 30mph, and then retired those biking shorts)... A 180 up front pretty forces you to pick a 140 on the back for the reasons slim is out lining.

Just my preferences but I have to pick combos my kids can handle.
 
F

footsore.tramp

Member
I haven't had any locking up problems with the 160mm that are currently on the bike, though I expect the new set-up to be more responsive.
I'll see.

I'm still not used to the cruzbike wobbles, as they are a different thing to my diamond frame.
I got some when I was going about 60km/hr downhill a few weeks ago and that got the adrenaline pumping.
On descending in general, the feel going into the corners is completely different.
The only comparison I can make is with riding water slides when I was younger.
Going down head first is akin to the upright bike, going down feet first is akin to the recumbent.

I had my first tumble the other day.
The back slipped out on a slippery surface at a bit over 30km/hr.
I only lost some skin on the arm.

Cheers,
Bill
 
super slim

super slim

Zen MBB Master
ratz said:
180 might be tight on the front on the old Q1 you might have to file a bit. I find 160 front, 140 back is plenty for a Quest. I find that any more than a 140 on the back of a Quest leads to back wheel lockups and on a Recumbent that's a bad thing unless you enjoy going sideways down a hill. (yep I have done it at 30mph, and then retired those biking shorts)... A 180 up front pretty forces you to pick a 140 on the back for the reasons slim is out lining.

Just my preferences but I have to pick combos my kids can handle.
Click to expand...

185 mm front disc fits ok with 4 mm of clearance on an Ausy version Quest V1.0 front fork.
The whole aim is to get the two handle bar forces as close to each other as possible.
 
quickbeam

quickbeam

Well-Known Member
I have a question on my V2K, with a disc front and rim brakes in back - they both stop me, but at about the same rate (when trying to brake with just one or the other). I would expect the front disc brakes to have more braking power. It seems to be adjusted pretty well, is this normal?
 
F

footsore.tramp

Member
An update on the upgrades.
The friction shifters arrived and I've replaced the indexed Microshift grip-shifts.
It works a treat and is something I'd recommend to anyone who like a fuss free life.
Now all I have to do is make sure that my low and high is set and I have complete control over what is in-between.

The brakes are in the mail, I'll report on them after I've installed and ridden.
Cheers,
Bill.
 
super slim

super slim

Zen MBB Master
quickbeam said:
I have a question on my V2K, with a disc front and rim brakes in back - they both stop me, but at about the same rate (when trying to brake with just one or the other). I would expect the front disc brakes to have more braking power. It seems to be adjusted pretty well, is this normal?
Click to expand...


http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/avid-mechanical-disc-adjustment

http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/avid-mechanical-disc-adjustment#article-section-4

The front braking is normal twice that of the rear, so I think you disk brake adjust is off, with the pads not being square to the disk.
 
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