Quest chainwheel

[jphipps]

Decided to replace the original elliptical chainwheel with a Rotor Q-cx1, used a 42 tooth as original and what a difference. Much better power transfer and a smoother stroke. I have had a slight problem with the de-rail shifting since purchasing the bike, but the new chainwheel solved the problem. The original chainwheel had a flat plate chain guard mounted on the out side, I removed the guard and replaced it with the Q-cx1, as it incorporates thick/thin technology to keep the chain from falling off (it works). The resulting chain line has eliminated any de-rail shifting problems. Anyone who has upgraded to an air shock should give the Q-cx1 a try as it comes in multiple tooth configrations.

 

[ratz]

Nice!

Not 100% sure, but from that picture you might want to try #3 on that indicated bolt below. That should make "1" engage the chain at the dead spot, which is per rotors recumbent instructions. Hard to say on a quest because the boom is so easy to adjust; you might have accounted for that and be seeing something different. But.... if my suspicion is correct that will feel even better;and you can try 2 and 4 on that same bolt as well and compare. #2 should be more power; and #4 should spin and accelerate quicker at the expense of power on the top end.

First QCX1 we've seen in the wild very nice for a non derailleur setup that 1x rings really, as you noted, keep the chain on. Keep us up to date on how it treats you going forward.

 

[jphipps]

I used the "John T" method of adjustment, which is max ring equivalent at max leg output, which is what I had on the original ring. I eye-balled what I had set on the Cruzbike ring and slightly adjusted it for the angle of push on the pedal. You know that when using on a upright bike the large diameter of the ring is 90 degrees out of sync than when using on a recumbent bike. Anyway I am using a longer shock than came with the bike so that I can correctly set the "SAG" and as a result am slightly more like an upright bike and that effects the adjustment. John T's adjustment set-up is posted on this website in multiple locations, "leg maximum gearing where it can best deliver", and it seems to work for me.

 

[ratz]

I used the "John T" method of adjustment, which is max ring equivalent at max leg output, which is what I had on the original ring. I eye-balled what I had set on the Cruzbike ring and slightly adjusted it for the angle of push on the pedal. You know that when using on a upright bike the large diameter of the ring is 90 degrees out of sync than when using on a recumbent bike. Anyway I am using a longer shock than came with the bike so that I can correctly set the "SAG" and as a result am slightly more like an upright bike and that effects the adjustment. John T's adjustment set-up is posted on this website in multiple locations, "leg maximum gearing where it can best deliver", and it seems to work for me.

Indeed we covered that in depth here: http://cruzbike.com/forum/threads/q-ring-upgrade-ahhhhhhhhhhhhh.7784/
Post #37 verified John's method and Rotors recumbent instructions match.
The SAG in a longer shock would definitely account for the visual difference and is very interesting; I had forgotten you went with a 150mm travel shock.

Did you every post a picture of that shock setup?

 

[CruzLike]

What is the difference between the original ring and the new. Was the Qcx1 more oval?

 

[jphipps]

Yes Qcx1 is more oval and has thick/thin teeth to keep chain from falling off. The reason I mentioned the air shock is that the Qcx1 does the same for lateral movement of legs, it smooths out the high,low push spots when pedaling. The correct adjustment holes to use are rider dependent ,i.e. leg length, strength of leg at different lengths, amount of up-right position, how much spin does rider like, etc. I think anyone who is a "spinner" will like this chain wheel, as all riders spin at certain grades, it can be adjusted to a non spin mode also, if a person likes to push. It also comes in 38, 40 42, and 44 teeth.

 

[Rich]

The original chainring is mounted to the opposite side of the crank arms. Does moving to the outside change anything?

 

[jphipps]

Moving chainring to the outside changes the chain line about 1/2 to 1 inch, and in my case it corrected a shifting problem I have had since purchasing the Quest.