S30 Boom Adjustment

Valokey81

New Member
I finally got around to building up my Silvio S30. I had the components installed at the bike shop. They told me I had to adjust the bike my self because they had no idea how to do it. I took it home and tried to do my self but it's proven to be rather difficult. I move the boom up so my legs have a slight bend but then the handlebars are literally on my chest. I cant push it in more and if I move the boom down some then my legs can't reach. I'm pretty sure I'm missing something and was hoping to get some advice or maybe some one has a video of the process. Thank you.
 

Robert Holler

Administrator
Staff member
It is possible you need to shorten the boom a bit. The inner tube. You can easily cut off 3-4" and you will have plenty of adjustment.

Robert
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
It is possible you need to shorten the boom a bit. The inner tube. You can easily cut off 3-4" and you will have plenty of adjustment.

Robert

I'm 5'9" and Xseam 39-40" we had to cut 4" off mine and 5" off of the wife's.
There is a guide to calculating your starting boom with; with photos in my silvio diary that is over at BROL
http://www.bentrideronline.com/messageboard/showpost.php?p=1177676&postcount=1

It's based on the measurements in this PDF http://cruzbike.com/DOWNLOADS/SilvioS30Assembly-2.2.pdf
Page 10

Too make the bikes workable for tall people us shorter people have to do some cutting.
That's actually pretty common even building DF bikes where you have to cut the fork stem for short riders; or really tall ones.
 

Valokey81

New Member
Stupid question I'm sure but to calculate your Xseam is that the part in the instructions that involves a chair?
 

Valokey81

New Member
Not sure if anybody is reading this but we're does the X-seam measurement come into play when measuring the bike. When I do everything in step 10 I get 32" total when I do my x-seam measurement I get 41". Do I have to make something 41" to fit me properly. This whole measuring process has become a nightmare for me. I hope to get on the road soon.
 

SamP

Guru
Recumbent bikes have ranges of x-seam that they can fit. Each bike's spec sheet should tell you that range, e.g. CruzBike QX100, 33-46 inches, Silvio S30, 36-47 inches.. On CruzBikes, you adjust for your size by adjusting the boom length. On many other recumbent bikes, you adjust the seat position on the frame.
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Not sure if anybody is reading this but we're does the X-seam measurement come into play when measuring the bike. When I do everything in step 10 I get 32" total when I do my x-seam measurement I get 41". Do I have to make something 41" to fit me
properly. This whole measuring process has become a nightmare for me. I hope to get on the road soon.

The X-seam is just a Fast way to determine if the bit will fit you; xtreme's of short or tall wouldn't

Let's see if I can simplify but leave the necessary details to move you forward.

The Knee Clearance calculation just make it easier to figure out if you will need to cut the boom and let you get it close the first time.

A = top of your knee to the floor in (cm)
B= crank length in (cm)
C= 5cm​

Initial Boom Length = A+B+C

IF A = knee to floor 55cm
IF B = 170 mm cranks then 17cm​

You get

Boom Length = 55 + 17+ 5 = 77cm​

So
  • Make your boom 77cm to start with from the handle bar clam to the center of the cranks.
  • If you can't get the boom that short you need to cut the end off of the lower part that slides inside the top part.
  • That not uncommon and a hack saw or 2.5in pipe cutter will make short work of it.
I use a $8 pipe cutter from the hardware store.

You then put the boom on the bike. If you knees hit the handbear; don't change the length of the boom instead slide the hand bars forward and back (number 3 arrow in the picture below) see if going forward or back resolves clearance; the angle of the boom changes when you do this; and sometimes it resolve the clearance issue. If it does not; then make the boom longer (number 2 arrow) by 5cm ( not millimeters) and repeat the knee clearance check. and move the boom arrow 3 to find optimal.

Once you get a fit this when you will be at a great starting point. Then you have to do some pedaling and see how it feels. You can move the entire boom 5mm (not centimeters) at a time to get it dial in, 5mm adjustments make a big different in arm reach. If the leg reach or leg knee bends isn't right you can lengthen the boom or shorten.

Something like electrical tape on the boom is your friend when marking these initial settings so you know how far you are moving it.

Most beginners like the boom shorter and will lengthen it within 200-300 miles. When you pedal for real you will ankle a bit; because of that is hard to simulate it's not uncommon when fitting to be able to "brush" the handlebars with your legs every so slightly if you can make it happen and make it not happen by thinking about it then you probably have it just about correct; when pedaling in the real world you won't hit the bars un less you choose to when it's set like that. (this is actually true on a correctly setup DF bike but most people never try to do it but knee to palm slapping is actually a training drill.)



Screen Shot 2016-06-22 at 16.53.38 PM.png
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
http://cruzbike.com/fit.html

I looked at the page above and understand where to apply 1, 2, and 4. Where should I use measurement 3 (arm extension) for initial bike adjustment? I assume it is for handlebar reach but I am not sure.

You play with (3) to get your initial arm length comfortable; then you see if your legs hit the handle bars or not. If they hit; move the entire boom in the the slider clamp (3) to see if the leg interfereance goes a way forwards or backwards; That gives you an idea of how much to compensate with a longer boom (2). It's takes some tweaking usually in 5mm chunks at both (2) and (3) and then 1mm adjustments as you get it dialed in. Basically (3) is arm reach; (2) is leg reach but they are interconnected due to the Angle of the boom so it's not a simple A/B thing; they do interact and you have to fiddle.
 

Robert Holler

Administrator
Staff member
The arm reach I use to get a general sense for where to put the bars. Someone can have the x-seam just right with an inch of clearance but still be reaching too far. Proper arm position is important for generating power on the cruzbike. Too extended and you have nothing, too close to the body and the fit is too tight and you cant really stabilize the front end.

Robert
 
The arm reach is the length from your armpit to the center of your palm. So, if you used this measurement your arms would be fully extended; if this measurement is used from the seat back to the handlebar? Correct? Is this the way most folks ride (with arms extended)? About what degree of bend should you have at the elbows to stabilize the front end. I guess I am asking from what point to what point on the bike should that number approximate?

Right now my boom is about 34" but the measurements say it should be at 30". In order to get to 30, I have to cut the boom. Scary!!! My arms seem comfortable. I do want to generate power especially on hills. I want to get the bike as right as possible. I am also going to a shorter crank soon. I am probably obsessing. I am going to recheck all my measurements.

Thank you for the input.
 

Robert Holler

Administrator
Staff member
For me the measurement is more of a double check and I guesstimate by using it in conjunction with the other measurements - it isn't a measurement that I use to set something to that exact measurement.

When I do a build the measurements for me are all "as close as possible" since I cannot have the person physically present to do a 100% exact fit and I want to cable the bike to allow for some adjustment but cannot cable it for inches in every direction.

The main ones are the X seam. Then I account for the pedal to bar distance. If the reach seems "long in the arms" I account for pedal distance plus an inch or so. If they seem short arm I add a bit more - there ends up being more leg room on the upstroke but that is OK - getting the arms in a proper power position is more important than having the bars millimeters from the legs. That works on high racer fits where the upper body is 100% passive but on a cruzbike the added upper body power cannot be left off the table.

When doing fits in person, I find that people have good arm power when the shoulder to elbow is aligned with the torso when seated on the bike. This gives a good bend to the arms that is not extreme but also not cramped in. Good position to still be able to pull and push with.
 
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