Silvio 1.5 build help

[mickjordan]

I am starting the build process for my Silvio 1.5 and have an issue with the suspension block and the instructions. They simply say "place the suspension block over the mounting on the underside of the seat back". The diagram, however, shows three parts, which I have photographed and attached, along with the parts that I believe correspond to the diagram.

There is a headless, threaded bolt with an allen key that evidently screws into the seat back, the block itself, which slides over that (but is not held in place, because the bold is headless) and a part identified as 4 SV_01_01_01_03, that looks as if it might hold the block in place. However, my part has no means of attachment, it has a conical protrusion on one side and and cylindrical protrusion on the other. There also does not seem to enough space between the block and the seatstay suspension link for this part anyway.

Help appreciated from some one who has successfully fugured this out.

Mick

 

[John Tolhurst]

PUt it together as

PUt it together as illustrated, please. The small flying saucer looking piece will preload the shock slightly, which is good if you are heavier. You want the Link Plate to be straight when you are sitting on the bike. Once together you will not readily remove that part, as it is sandwiched.

 

[mickjordan]

Thanksy

Thanks, John, for the quick response. I was trying to relate this to your video (which I guess is a 1.0) which shows a clear gap between the shock and the plate.

 

[mickjordan]

Tight dropouts

Having got the rear section assembled, I thought I'd try to drop in my wheel. It tried two different wheels, a Mavic Open Pro with White Industries hub and a Easton SLX 9000. Neither drop in. I tried a modest amount of force to no effect. I'm guessing the paint thickness may be the issue. I'm nervous about forcing the wheel in.

 

[John Tolhurst]

don't be shy

Mick,
loosen the bolts holding the rear stays to the rear dropouts, don't be shy to open up the gap for the wheel as needed. Retighted bolts. This is heat treated 7005, there is no stronger grade of alluminium alloy, you won't hurt it with your hands.

Many years ago i took an alloy y frame mtb to an old timer at a bike shop asking if it was possible to close up the 135 gap between the rear dropouts to 100. He said leave it with me. ... When I went back, he shock his head and said, well I closed it up to 90,, but when I released it, it went back to 135. His first real look at 7005 alloy, after working with steel and building side cars and stuff, was a real surprise to him. So I put a long axle in the wheel with low profile cones, as now found in the conversion kit.

 

[mickjordan]

Not Shy

I think I get it. I widened the gap between the stays (by pulling apart) enough to locate the wheel where it should be, then when I tightened the skewer it forced the wheel into the bracket, photo attached. One side is now wedged but I imagine I'll be able to loosen it with a bit of wiggling. Hope so else chaninging a tire will be a pain!

 

[mickjordan]

Chainstay extension fit

I was looking at how the chainstay extension attaches to the chainstay today and noticed that, although the finish is cut away on the stay, the cutaway distance it is about 2mm too short, as the attached photo should demonstrate. Hmm. I tried to attach a photo but even at 100K the uploader complaind it was too big.

I recall now that I had a hard time installng the rear chainstay - it looked like it should just slide in but I had to force it using a rubber mallet. Looking at that again, it looks like it also had a short cutaway.

The question is whether this is important and that forcing the parts together is ok, ot whether there is a way an owner can increase the cutaway. Since this is carbon I'm cautious about messing with it.

Mick

 

[John Tolhurst]

You may need to lightly tap

You may need to lightly tap the head of the chainstay into the slot on the chainstay extention. Or clamp to gently press it in.

 

[Doug Burton]

Paint...

The frame cutting tolerances are correct, but they don't allow for paint thickness, which is variable and tends to the thick side (which is good for paint durability.)

It's not unusual to have to sand a bit of paint off the inside of the dropouts (where the axle stub goes in, not the face surface) and to clean up the inside of the carbostay releif in the frame on the rear. It's better not to sand the carbon fiber surface of the carbostay, although this can usually be done without an issue.

Cheers,

Doug

 

[mickjordan]

Tight dropouts redux

Having installed the ultegra BB kit/chainwheel, I just spent a rather frustrating time failing to get the front wheel in place. I'm assuming this is ultimately due to the front fork dropouts being tight also due to paint, but I couldn't finesse it because everything is stiffer in the fork area and the cassette is an extra distraction. I got close but because you have to thread the skewer after the wheel is in place, I just couldn't get the holes lined up. It doesn't help that the fork and chainstay aren't actually connected by any bolts. When I have one side clicked in, the other pops out. I guess this means my chainstay setup isn't perfectly aligned, but it's not clear what I could do to fix that.

Am I the only person having this problem?

 

[John Tolhurst]

wheel in steps

I usually break this down as follows:
1) put the wheel in the fork, (with the chain over the cassette and RD in the outermost position, smallest sproket)

2) loosen the boom clamp (to make sure the chainstay is free to adopt its correct alignment

3) thread the skewer (I prefer to thread in from the derailleur side) and get a couple of turns of the nut on it

4) wind the skewer up to close the assembly together

John

 

[mickjordan]

WHeel in Steps

Thanks, John, I can see how steps 2 and 3 would be a big help. Of course I still need to be able to get the wheel in the fork. Did you consider not painting the dropouts? That way the paint thickness would be a non-issue.

Mick

 

[John Tolhurst]

Its just paint, Mick, hit it

Its just paint, Mick, hit it with a nail file or something! We sometimes do mask off parts of the frame from paint for fine tolerances. The fork drop out is 10.0mm, your hub is 9.6 - looks like you stuck a tiny drip?

 

[mickjordan]

Just Paint

I filed off the paint on the inside of the all four dropouts, and after that the wheels dropped in ok. But I had to file every last bit of paint off before the wheel would go in without catching. I posted about this mainly because it's unusual and it surprised me and probably will surprise others. I have had many bikes in my life, including four current, and have never had a dropout problem before.

Mick