Silvio build roadblocks

[HC203]

Building my Silvio before sending to off to my mechanic for cables and such-ran into a couple issues. Want to see if others had theses problems.
It seems the bolt in my swivel clamp has seized up. Not quite sure why. It was threaded in correctly but as I was adjusting for leg length and knee clearance it just seized up, wouldn't loosen or tighten and is now seized within the clamp. I've contacted Cruzbike to see about a new clamp as there is no way to extract this bolt.
Second issue is the suspension fork It doesn't seem to hold pressure, upon inspection noticed a small hole, perfect circle as if it is meant to be there. Perhaps a manufacturing defect, not a tear.
And advice is greatly appreciated.

 

[ratz]

Second issue is the suspension fork It doesn't seem to hold pressure, upon inspection noticed a small hole, perfect circle as if it is meant to be there. Perhaps a manufacturing defect, not a tear.
And advice is greatly appreciated.

That hole is normal. The probably with air pressure is usually someone whose not used a "shock pump" before. Did you follow the instructions for that type of pump? It's not obvious the first time.

http://www.cruzbike.com/KindShockPumpOperation.pdf


As for the clamp bolt, got a picture? On the previous models you have to put an allen wrench on both side to unscrew it. It does have a anti spin lip but if you don't use two wrench at the same time you'll quickly sheer that off and then not be able to unscrew without two wrenches.

 

[HC203]

Thanks, it appears that there is no way to use an allen wrench on the side with the anti slip lip. That is the issue that lip is quickly stripping the aluminum groove.

 

[HC203]

Thanks for the pump instructions. That should solve that issue.

 

[HC203]

The only way I can see trying to loosen this bolt is thus-the non wrench side can be pushed far enough out to get vice grips on it-but that will likely tear the heck out of it-and it appears the anti slip notch and recess are already somewhat stripped. I would prefer it to be keyed on both sides. Very frustrating because I'm not really not that careless and always watch for threading properly.

 

[ratz]

The only way I can see trying to loosen this bolt is thus-the non wrench side can be pushed far enough out to get vice grips on it-but that will likely tear the heck out of it-and it appears the anti slip notch and recess are already somewhat stripped. I would prefer it to be keyed on both sides. Very frustrating because I'm not really not that careless and always watch for threading properly.

Ok that looks new haven't seen the S30 clamp in person but you picture sure look like you don't have any hex wrench interface. Any else with an S30 that confirm?

My guess is the pressure to make it works comes from the boom normally be in the clamp. Robert will likely answer the support stuff late today or early tomorrow when he see that.

In the meantime was the boom in the clam and you could get it to turn so you slide it out; or were you testing the threads a head of time and now it's stuck. If the later you could try greasing the outside of the boom and sliding it in to create the pressure and re-try removing the bolt. If you do have to tear it up with a vice-grip; it will still likely work; I did that to one of our similar but different S2.1 bolts. It was fine while I waited the week to get a replacement so I could "hide" my error .

 

[ratz]

Thanks for the pump instructions. That should solve that issue.

Excellent; trust me I think 90% of us didn't understand that at first even with the instructions in the box you are in good company.

 

[HC203]

Vice grips like duct tape are indispensable tools. I was able to extract the bolt and the no slip groove is still intact-mostly. I greased the bolt really good and worked it back in and out to essentially re tap it. It looks like I am back in business as the torque required to hold the steering tube tight isn't that much-meaning I was able to get the bolt tight again. I would still like to have a spare bolt on hand just in case. I'll be dropping it off tmrw with my local wrench-he'll be running cables, installing chain etc. I'll keep you all posted. I'd do a build diary but I'm not that organized.

As for the pump-It seemed straight forward-just missed that one very important detail.

 

[Jeremy S]

Ok that looks new haven't seen the S30 clamp in person but you picture sure look like you don't have any hex wrench interface. Any else with an S30 that confirm?

My Silvio 2.0 is the same way, no hex socket on the keyed end of the bolt, just a round hole.

 

[BentAero]

When Larry and I built his V20 we/he had that exact same experience with the 'new style' bolt. It just seized for no apparent reason. We weren't so fortunate in healing it; the two halves welded themselves together and while holding the 'nut' side with vise grips and turning the hex head, it snapped in two. IIRC, Larry had Robert send another.
I'm not a fan of the 'anti-spin lip' style, I like the old version better.

 

[mzweili]

machined stainless steel threads generally are prone to seize. Hardware with roll-formed threads are much better, but also more expensive.
Applying some disgusting* anti-seize compound helps a lot. Wearing gloves is recommended when playing with this stuff.

 

[ratz]

This.... Lasts forever. (on or off your finger. Gloves and a throw away brush)..

 

[HC203]

All great info. I was able to unlock the threads and everything seems to be okay, however I don't like having a chewed up nut on that very important clamp. Also glad to know it wasn't simply a bone headed move on my part. Anxious to get this thing on the road and get some a thousand or so practice miles in.

 

[HC203]

They also provided a small bag of cabling parts. I wouldn't know what to do with these but I'm sure my mechanic will have some idea.

 

[ratz]

Top to bottom:
1) Cable frame rub protector; goes on the housing to protect frame paint.
2) Cable reducer guide for running the cable into the frame and then without housing inside frame.
3 & 4) Cable dust covers for the rear deraillaur.

Have not ever found and CB instructions documenting their intended use. In my builds I would up using different parts as these never seemed to work quite right. Probably just me not knowing the proper use.

 

[Robert Holler]

The lack of a hex on both sides is a real hassle, and trust me that was a design change that should not have happened. In the future replacements will have a hex on both sides.

 

[snilard]

2) Cable reducer guide for running the cable into the frame and then without housing inside frame.
3 & 4) Cable dust covers for the rear deraillaur.

I have used this parts as end ferules for brakes and routed rear brake housing thru frame. It seams that it works and I am to lazy to change it . Or should I change it?

 

[Bruce B]

I have used this parts as end ferules for brakes and routed rear brake housing thru frame. It seams that it works and I am to lazy to change it . Or should I change it?

There is no need to change the brake housing if it working.

 

[HC203]

Thanks all, much appreciated. Cruzbike is sending a new pivot clamp. Having cables and such done now as I want to ride asap. I'll swap out the new pivot clamp at a a later date. What I do love about Cruzbike, a small company that continues to improve based on customer feedback.

 

[jond]

Thanks all, much appreciated. Cruzbike is sending a new pivot clamp. Having cables and such done now as I want to ride asap. I'll swap out the new pivot clamp at a a later date. What I do love about Cruzbike, a small company that continues to improve based on customer feedback.

here here. great company great bikes.