Technique ideas for riding up steep hills?

Alex Apostolou

New Member
I've recently taken to training in the hills at the back of Perth prior to participating in the 5 Dams Challenge, which is a 250 km excursion with a total of 2 km of vertical climbing. I ride a Silvio with a newly fitted 11-28 cogs but still have to walk up some hills. It starts with the front wheel starting to slip, so I lean forward, but by then I'm under 10 km/hr and have to stop and there's no getting started again: that's when the walking starts.

What I'd like to know is, other than changing to smaller chain rings, losing weight, pedaling harder, or attaching an electrical assist, is there something that I could do technique-wise which would render this hill achievable?
 

Lief

Guru Schmuru
Alex,
John said it best when he answered my same question in this post here.

http://cruzbike.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1572&p=7852&hilit=hill+pedal#p7869
John Tolhurst wrote: As you get more comfortable with the bike, lean forward, lower gearing, smooth the torque to eliminate most wheelspin...
 

John Tolhurst

Zen MBB Master
Following that, you need to look at tire pressures. Dropping from 120psi to 100 psi will offer proportionally better traction, which may be all that is needed. Possibly a 25 or 28 mm tire over a 23. The balance of tire pressure to shock pressure can be important to keeping low rolling resistance.
 

WhiteSilvio

Well-Known Member
Alex Apostolou wrote: I ride a Silvio with a newly fitted 11-28 cogs but still have to walk up some hills. It starts with the front wheel starting to slip, so I lean forward, but by then I'm under 10 km/hr and have to stop and there's no getting started again: that's when the walking starts.
Hi Alex,
Just wondering what your front chainring sizes are? Well more precisely what number of teeth are on your smallest chainring?

I've recently climbed a 2.3 km wet (not actually raining but the road varied from damp to quite wet) ascent using compact 34/54 crankset with 12/25 cassette, so basically 34 to 25 gear for pretty much the whole climb. This is only the second time I have managed this ascent which has a vertical rise of approximately 185m (using Google Earth: Warning - may not be totally accurate but a guide anyway).

The biggest problem I had was with "the motor" being able to maintain power all the way to the top. I took my time, and saw speeds of around 8 to 9 km/hr. but had little problem with wheel slippage even though I am using 23mm tyres and running them at around 100-110psi. (I weigh in at around 70kg these days)

I was quite surprised that I didn't have wheel slippage, but I have to say that I concentrated on pedaling as evenly as I could. I don't think that I could physically lean forward on the bike for the time it took to ride up this grade, which I estimated at around 13-14 minutes.

So some impressions on ascending climbs.

Regards,
John R.
 

Mark B

Zen MBB Master
John hit the nail on the head. Wider tire, lower pressure on the front. If the pavement is rough, then shock pressure comes into play. Smooth and steady pedal stroke. Are you clipped in?

Mark
 

Alex Apostolou

New Member
Thanks for all your feedback.

Lowering tyre pressure or wider wheels: In this particular case, with 140 km of hills, up as well as down, followed by 90km of flat stretch, losing the decreased rolling resistance to get up that one bastard of a hill wasn't worth it. I simply got off the bike and walked it up the 20 or 30 metres of 20 degree slope.

Smaller front chain-ring: the week before, I had changed my cluster from a 12-25 to an 11-28. To get to 28, they leave a lot of the intermediate ratios out, and going up and down a whole range of differing gradients meant I really missed the incremental changes. I was always hunting for the right cadence and work load. This also applied to the chain rings, which could have been smaller, just as the crankshafts could have been a bit longer, but then you end up with more leg weight being thrown around a bigger circle faster. (Apologies for my reductionist tendencies). John suggested that I look into an oval shaped chain ring, which I think would make a positive contribution, but I've been told that they are very hard and expensive to come by.

Also, leaning further forward was something I tried, but found that tilting the pelvis further forward meant that the thing muscle-mass was closer to seat bottom and when pedalling hard a painful pinching was experienced. Here, I think I will round the seat bottom edges downwards to make the seating area slightly smaller.

This last point is something I pondered on quite a bit as watching the normal cyclists ride by, one can't help but notice the way they shift their body weight from left to ride as they saunter up the hill. We can do that with our shoulders, but it ain't the same, there's nowhere near the muscle mass there to throw around. Perhaps if the seat surface was more convex, one could roll their hips in the same way and gain some benefit?

This then gets back to technique and I had been trying to master the pull/push mode and not just pushing the pedals, but given my shoes were a fraction too big, I ended up with blisters on the soles as well as the heels which meant that I was just back to pushing again. This reduction in muscle utilisation must have meant hills were longer than they needed to be.

Having said all that we did a time of 10.5 hours for the 240 km's which was an average of just under 25 km/hr. The best time was 8 hours, for an average of 30 km/hr. And all in all, despite one minor dismounting, the bike could not have been better. In fact, it was the best ever. Sure, I was the only recumbent rider there, and people did generally look upon me pitifully in the hills, typically most of what I lost going up, I picked up going down. And on the final flat stretch home, many of the buggers were drafting behind me. It's time to get back to that tail box...

Oh yeah, and one more thing, leaning forward to grab the handlebars does leave you in a weaker position, as you have to use your biceps to pull you closer and to then act against your legs. If there were some handlebars, that, like drop bars, gave you two positions to hold on to, one laid back, one sitting upright, but with the same arm extension, it would be easier to heft up hills, I think...
 

KenM

Member
For some reason while riding home from work today I felt particularly strong and discovered a new sensation/technique while climbing a couple of big, steep hills.

Previously when going up these hills I had been working my arms quite a bit as I pedalled hard. Today I found my arms were a bit more relaxed going up the hill and as I was pushing on the pedals I was aware of bracing my lower back against the back of the seat. I suspect that as I further explore this I will be able to exert more pressure than I used to to when standing on a conventional bike. Standing, you only have your body weight, whereas with the Cruzbike I'm actually pushing against something solid. I know its more "grinding" rather than "spinning", but for short periods is can be really useful.

I'm still fairly new to the Cruzbike but I haven't heard this aspect mentioned in the Forum before.
Cheers,
-Ken
 
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