What gear?

[PeteClark]

Still learning to ride the V, and having fun doing it.

One thing that I've found annoying is that I can't see the cassette. Back in my DF days, it was easy to glance down, see the chain on the cassette, and know that my next shift would be with the front or rear derailleur (I avoided small-small and big-big like the plague). Now I find myself checking speed, estimating cadence (minimal instrumentation here), and guessing whether or not to grab one more gear on the cassette or shift the front derailleur.

Has anyone mounted a mirror to see the cassette?

 

[ratz]

Never thought of a mirror; not a bad ida.

I think we all have develop "the peak" maneuver....
One advantage of Di2 is that you have have your gearing read out on the GPS.

 

[snilard]

I usually shift front derailleur depending on speed. I upshift somewhere around 30 km/h and downshift at 25 km/h. If I forgot shift at front, chain rubbing to front derailleur cage will notice me.
Your shifting speeds may be different depending on your cadence and gear.

Edit : I can see my cassette when I sit up.

 

[DavidCH]

Usually when I am climbing I sit up and change to the smaller front chainwheel. And also when coming to a stop. When I am stopping I make sure I am in one of the three largest cogs on the cassette otherwise it's a struggle to get going again; especially if you are going up a hill.

You do eventually get use to it.

When you sit up you should be able to see the cassette.

 

[PeteClark]

Sitting up while riding is not an option for me. With the boom set for proper leg extension (47 x-seam) and the slider set to give me 1cm clearance between my thigh and the handlebar (25" upstroke clearance and 175mm crank arms), the bar is above my stomach not my hips. I have to slide back on the seat to sit up. I could create room to sit up (space between bar and gut) by:
- raising the bar with a stem extension (but don't want to go for the "chopper look" with my hands up at eye level)
- using shorter cranks (but loved the 180's on my DF and already settled for 175's on the V)
- losing some gut (desired outcome, but not a quick fix)
A mirror seemed like a possible solution.

 

[snilard]

A mirror seemed like a possible solution.

I think that mirror is not necessary. You see your chainrings all time so you can easily estimate your cog from your speed. I don't have gear display on any of my recumbents and I shift just by feel.

 

[LarryOz]

I think we all have develop "the peak" maneuver....
One advantage of Di2 is that you have have your gearing read out on the GPS.

What Ratz said.
I am also lucky in that I seldom ride anything steeper than 7-8% grade, so I don't even have my FD hooked up any more - problem solved..

 

[RojoRacing]

I never need to look to avoid cross chaining, I just know at certain speed ranges I need to be in ether the big or small chainring. I one time I will look at my cassette is during a long climb as I approach a very steep section to see where I'm at exactly, that way I can count how many down shifts before I have to just gut it out the rest of the way. Since the distance between the small and large cog on 9 and 10 speed cassette's is basically the same, just small hops for 10s you could use this. I used these on my old 27 speed mtb and liked them. I payed much attention to the lines themselves, I just noted the general position of the red dot. I could always tell where I was within 1 gear.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-Dura-Ace-7700-9-Speed-INLINE-GEAR-INDICATOR-/301710132557

 

[ratz]

What Ratz said.
I am also lucky in that I seldom ride anything steeper than 7-8% grade, so I don't even have my FD hooked up any more - problem solved..

Btw I confirm you can run SRAM Etap without the front derailleur works fine; unlike Di2 which as far as I know won't run.

 

[ratz]

Sitting up while riding is not an option for me. With the boom set for proper leg extension (47 x-seam) and the slider set to give me 1cm clearance between my thigh and the handlebar (25" upstroke clearance and 175mm crank arms), the bar is above my stomach not my hips. I have to slide back on the seat to sit up. I could create room to sit up (space between bar and gut) by:
- raising the bar with a stem extension (but don't want to go for the "chopper look" with my hands up at eye level)
- using shorter cranks (but loved the 180's on my DF and already settled for 175's on the V)
- losing some gut (desired outcome, but not a quick fix)
A mirror seemed like a possible solution.

When your balance comes; you'll be able peak between you right arm and your right leg and see the cassette. Practice that around the time you get cocky about your figure 8 drills; and you'll quickly figure out the trick. I can do it reach for my water bottle and not miss a beat; it's just one of those things that comes as you gradually improve.

You'll probably also move the entire boom forward as you adapt; most people do. Mrs ratz in moved forward about 10mm between year 1 and year 2.

 

[jond]

as a confirmed non climber the only time i look at my cassette is when i am climbing a steep big hill. to confirm i am on the easiest combo for my doubting questioning chicken legs and flailing lungs.

but seriously peter so long as your cadence is comfortable and consistent for you it does not really matter what gear combo you are in. if you are riding flatlands grab a close ratio cassette which will help enormously with the cadence. just shift your front in plenty of time before chain rub. i hate cross chaining too and squirm when i see others do it. thus i understand the wanting to know how many gears you have left.

experience will tell you when and just avoid the last two cogs top and bottom for the appropriate chain ring. easy...see no looking going fast big chain ring going slow smaller chain ring. easy.

simply just ride. and before you know it that handlebar in the gut will not be an issue and you can peek all you like at the front wheel . not recommended at 55klm/hr.

keep at it and keep smiling. enjoy the journey.

 

[JOSEPHWEISSERT]

Still learning to ride the V, and having fun doing it.

One thing that I've found annoying is that I can't see the cassette. Back in my DF days, it was easy to glance down, see the chain on the cassette, and know that my next shift would be with the front or rear derailleur (I avoided small-small and big-big like the plague). Now I find myself checking speed, estimating cadence (minimal instrumentation here), and guessing whether or not to grab one more gear on the cassette or shift the front derailleur.

Has anyone mounted a mirror to see the cassette?

I don't find it to be a problem because I can use any cog with either chainring. I just shift however I need to shift with no worries.

 

[LarryOz]

unlike Di2 which as far as I know won't run.

I have totally un-hooked the FD and the RD still works.
I also bought a extra Di2 TT shifter, battery, junction box, 3 cables and RD with the thought of being able to stick them on all the other recumbents quickly when I test.
The RD works just fine all by itself, even without a FD shifter in the mix.

 

[ratz]

I have totally un-hooked the FD and the RD still works.
I also bought a extra Di2 TT shifter, battery, junction box, 3 cables and RD with the thought of being able to stick them on all the other recumbents quickly when I test.
The RD works just fine all by itself, even without a FD shifter in the mix.

Interesting if I disconnect mine the entire system shuts down. Perhaps if I programmed it with the derailleur missing it would then work; or if I removed the other end of the cable from the junction.

 

[LarryOz]

Interesting if I disconnect mine the entire system shuts down. Perhaps if I programmed it with the derailleur missing it would then work; or if I removed the other end of the cable from the junction.

I did not have to do that: I just uplugged the FD and my RD still works. I did not do any re-programming to the system

 

[Bill K]

I am also new to the V20. I am liking the bar-end shifters. Easy to tell what gear you are in and fairly easy to shift (but shifts are not as fast as brifters).
They are not all that expensive, you might want to try a pair, but I suspect you will quickly learn to be happy with the shifters you already have.

Bill

 

[PeteClark]

What a great forum! I can ask a naive question, and get nothing but constructive suggestions! Thanks. I hope to meet some of you on the road someday.

 

[ratz]

I did not have to do that: I just uplugged the FD and my RD still works. I did not do any re-programming to the system

Walked to basement; sure enough works on mine now too. Cool. Would have been nice last year when I broke a cable.

 

[Abbott Smith]

I never need to look to avoid cross chaining, I just know at certain speed ranges I need to be in ether the big or small chainring. I one time I will look at my cassette is during a long climb as I approach a very steep section to see where I'm at exactly, that way I can count how many down shifts before I have to just gut it out the rest of the way. Since the distance between the small and large cog on 9 and 10 speed cassette's is basically the same, just small hops for 10s you could use this. I used these on my old 27 speed mtb and liked them. I payed much attention to the lines themselves, I just noted the general position of the red dot. I could always tell where I was within 1 gear.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIMANO-Dura-Ace-7700-9-Speed-INLINE-GEAR-INDICATOR-/301710132557

I'm running one of these on SigtD