Rojomajig (Shift Housing Loop Eliminator)

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
The solution to the problem you didn't know you had, or a solution in need of a problem. These are both common phrases used to describe SRAMs long since discontinued Rolamajig. The device is meant to eliminate the large loop of shift housing that is needed with the old shimano mtb derailleurs and most road bike setups. Then years later when SRAMs own mtb derailleur design caught on which also eliminates the need for a loop they stopped production of the Rolamajig. Now 10 years later the Rolamajig is a well sought after collectors item among old school bike builders. Now I know most Cruzbike riders use a mtb rear Derailleur so you don't suffer with a huge loop hanging down next to the front wheel just waiting to get caught on something, but for those of us with roadie derailleurs aren't so lucky. After some time searching around for a Rolamajig for sale online I gave up the hunt and decided to make my own and of course better version.

This project has been in my head for the last 2 months but do to some debilitating injuries I suffered back in June I only recently was able to bring it to life. I actually made 4 versions of the device before getting the angle perfect as well as shrinking the foot print down to the absolute minimum. The black backing plate which holds the pulley as well and the cable ferrules is made out of Delrin(Machinists Plastic) so I weights almost nothing. The pulley is also plastic and houses a small stainless ball bearing for effortless movement. SRAMs old rolamajig used a cheaper plastic bushing design that would need cleaning and servicing to keep is moving freely. The ball bearing design should stay smoother for the life of your cables in decent weather conditions. I'm calling this a fair weather product since the actual shift cable is exposed as it wraps around the pulley which adds one more stop for weather to get in. I'd bet it would perform fine after many wet weather rides but since I never ride the road in the wet I can't properly test its performance in those conditions.

Below I'm including some before and after photos as well as video to show the Rojomajig in actions.

Large loop with SRAM RED 22, the housing leading into the derailleur was already showing signs of creasing from two months of use.
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Rojomajig
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SamP

Guru
Both my MTB derailleurs are over a decade old, I had no idea that new MTB derailleurs don't need a cable loop. I guess I ought to look closer at a newish bike.
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
Perfect. And you are selling these in a kit with my new headrest clamp?

This with the headrest clamp and my yet to be perfected wheel flop boom stabilizer would make for a trifecta of parts in the Rojo Racing line of Cruzebike upgrades :lol

we can start a list, if I get at least 3 requests I'll pull the trigger and make a half dozen more.
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
I would be interested in one of the wheel flop boom stabilizers if that is what you are referring to. Unfortunately I have the older yellow version V.

it's on my list of things to do but a little further down the line. My time is going to start getting real tight as I get closer to the 24hr race in Nov and start finalizing my prep work.
 

Lief

Guru Schmuru
My Silvio 1.0 has the loop - and will continue to do so for quite some time now.
I blame that loop for shortening the life of my shifter cable due to water and grit accumulating in the bottom of the loop.

Sign me up for a Rojomajig.
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
My Silvio 1.0 has the loop - and will continue to do so for quite some time now.
I blame that loop for shortening the life of my shifter cable due to water and grit accumulating in the bottom of the loop.

Sign me up for a Rojomajig.

One mod I'll soon be making to compliment my smoother shifting choices will be the elimination of the two cable housing stops on the fork leg. By drilling out the stops to 5mm I'll be able to run full housing from the brifters to the derailleur. With your current loop you then only have the only opening at the derailleur to worry about for contamination. I suggest Cruzbike change their fork legs to use one or preferably two brake hose clamps commonly found of mtb forks. You need the special continuous hose clamps to keep the housing from trying to sag and float around under vibration. I don't really think cable sag will be a big issue so maybe a couple round loops would be enough.
 

trapdoor2

Zen MBB Master
One mod I'll soon be making to compliment my smoother shifting choices will be the elimination of the two cable housing stops on the fork leg. By drilling out the stops to 5mm I'll be able to run full housing from the brifters to the derailleur.
Good idea, I think. I don't really understand the 'why' for having those stops there. Clamps or guides, yes...stops? :confused:

I'm running a SRAM MTB rear D on the V20, so no rojomajig required...but I do have other bikes (some already have an original rollamajig fitted). I'll be rebuilding my V2/k this fall. I may need one. Sign me up!
 
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ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Good idea, I think. I don't really understand the 'why' for having those stops there. Clamps or guides, yes...stops? :confused:
Road Derailleurs have a tension adjuster at the derailleur. Without the two cable stops and the bare section of cable you cannot get a very precise adjustment of the derailleur position with that adjuster. It works, it just lacks precision. It's job is to account for cable housing compression and working a against a short housing is easier; you can also replace just that section if the compression gets out of hand. So it's a historical thing that you can indeed engineer around with your cable and part selections; like adding in-line adjusters or using compression-less housing. There's more flexibility if it's left the way it is; it's trivial to drill out if you don't want to use it; adding one that would be needed later is a lot harder; and zip ties are ugly. Running as all electric these days I often think about grinding them off as I have zero cable running through them; in the end I leave them for resale purposes.
 

trapdoor2

Zen MBB Master
Makes sense, Ratz. I'm going to completely re-do my cabling in the near future. It works...but I find I really need to do a better job of it.
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
Road Derailleurs have a tension adjuster at the derailleur. Without the two cable stops and the bare section of cable you cannot get a very precise adjustment of the derailleur position with that adjuster. It works, it just lacks precision. It's job is to account for cable housing compression and working a against a short housing is easier; you can also replace just that section if the compression gets out of hand. So it's a historical thing that you can indeed engineer around with your cable and part selections; like adding in-line adjusters or using compression-less housing. There's more flexibility if it's left the way it is; it's trivial to drill out if you don't want to use it; adding one that would be needed later is a lot harder; and zip ties are ugly. Running as all electric these days I often think about grinding them off as I have zero cable running through them; in the end I leave them for resale purposes.

Thanks for pointing out the adjuster effects on 10" of cable vs 60" of cable, it makes perfect sense. I already use inline adjusters at the boom mounted water bottle mount so it's not an issue for me. Also like you said not all housing is made equal and the better stuff is nearly compressionless. Unfortunately 99% of people will rebuild a bike with cheap cable and suffer from poor performance because they didn't know why the makers of their bike did something a certain way.

I suggest if anyone would like to try the full housing, should go ahead and run a full housing but just zip tie it to the fork leg for the first 500 miles to judge any ill effects. Then if you like it you can open the cable stops after. Compressionless housing is like ceramic hearings for your shifting. Etap is the future we all wish we could afford.
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
Thanks for pointing out the adjuster effects on 10" of cable vs 60" of cable, it makes perfect sense. I already use inline adjusters at the boom mounted water bottle mount so it's not an issue for me. Also like you said not all housing is made equal and the better stuff is nearly compressionless. Unfortunately 99% of people will rebuild a bike with cheap cable and suffer from poor performance because they didn't know why the makers of their bike did something a certain way.

I suggest if anyone would like to try the full housing, should go ahead and run a full housing but just zip tie it to the fork leg for the first 500 miles to judge any ill effects. Then if you like it you can open the cable stops after. Compressionless housing is like ceramic hearings for your shifting. Etap is the future we all wish we could afford.

It is funny how much gets lost after a standard is applied and then accepted as the norm. I was asked a while back why then do MTB have the adjuster at the top. The simple answer was of course that MTB usually has a cable stop a the top or a "wrapped and secured" section of housing near the shifter that accomplishes the same thing for precision; and you can eliminate the open cable section down by the to dirt; thus no need for the adjuster down there. The MTB standard is superior in this case but was never adopted for road parts. I guess they figured that regular road riders would fiddle with the dials by their hands and mess up their bike tuning; much to the pain of the mechanics.... nah probably just a matter of momentum. Missing from the history is the effect of bar-end; and drop tube shifters which of course are actually why the barrel adjuster was at the derailleur to start with; but that's probably getting far too nerdy.

BTW the bend eliminator is quite cool.

Di2 and Etap will continue to drop in price when you factor in the savings in Cable and Labor they aren't too bad for top end stuff; the tech just needs to move down into the heavier and cheaper stuff. All in time I suppose. Sure was nice to be able to execute a simultaneous front and rear shift on a 15% grade last weekend (electric shift for the win). If not for that, Maria would have pedaled past me looking like an upside down turtle on the side of the road with my bike attached to my feet.
 

RojoRacing

Donut Powered Wise-guy
If etap hydro with 32t cassette was an option 3 months ago I would have gone that route instead of just red22 hydro, but hydro for life over here on the Mountain coast.
 

ratz

Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
If etap hydro with 32t cassette was an option 3 months ago I would have gone that route instead of just red22 hydro, but hydro for life over here on the Mountain coast.

Remind me, did post last week? that I tested that you can indeed install an 11-32 SRAM Cassette on an Etap short-cage; on the Vendetta Medium if you ex-seam is 36-44" the b-screw is long enough to take up the slack if your front rings are only 14T apart. aka 50/36, 52/38 etc. 50/34 would work as long as setup to run big/big and then never ran little/little and the associated slack chain.

We took 50/36QXL and 11-30T to Portland. the 11-32 would have fit no problem if I had ordered it.

Not sure the hydro option has shipped yet though.
 
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