trapdoor2
Zen MBB Master
I solved that issue with a pair of bar-end plugs. Much better than the crappy plastic bungs that come with bar wrap.
Uh oh...V20 back in stock!
- Thread starter trapdoor2
- Start date
Dave Arnold
Active Member
Marc,
Could you post a quick review of the Speedplay SYZR pedals? I have been using the Speedplay Frogs for over a decade, but I'm now getting tired of the rattle between the cleat and pedal, especially when doing TrainerRoad workouts and I start getting sloppy
Is it easy to clip in/out on the V?
Is there a lot of float like the Frogs (assuming you have used Frogs)?
Are the pedals self-centering like SPDs?
Can you force any rattle or play in the cleat/pedal interface (such as when doing a slow hard climb when you're tired)??
How about durability? How many miles to you have on the cleats and how long do you think they will last?
Thanks!
trapdoor2
Zen MBB Master
Ok, I was going to include pix but the Speedplay site does a much better job of that. http://www.speedplay.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=home.syzr
Backstory: I started using SPDs about 17 yrs ago when I bought my first 'bent (Catrike). I never really had any issues with them. When I went to two wheels (Optima Baron), I installed another set of SPDs...and discovered un-clip tension adjustments (never adjusted them for the trike).
I don't ever recall having any heel/ankle strike issues with the SPDs but when I started riding MBB, I started noticing that one or the other heel would sometimes rub/touch the crank arm as it went by. Never a hard hit...but annoying. I dealt with it by using block pedals, I could just shift my foot around so that it wouldn't hit. On the Conversion and on the later V2/Ks, block pedals are no problem...so I never fitted a set of clip-in pedals.
When I got the V20, I knew I was going to need clip-in (I hate the term 'clipless') pedals...but made my first rides with block pedals anyway. I noticed right away that I was getting heel/ankle strikes a lot more. I tried to take my old SPDs off of one of the V2/Ks but time (and corrosion) had welded them in place. So, I headed to my LBS to buy another set of SPDs.
While I was there, I saw a set of SYZR pedals and started looking into them. "Adjustable float" caught my eye. What I wanted was a set of pedals that I could adjust to eliminate that heel/ankle strike.
The SYZR pedals indeed eliminated the problem...but I'm not totally sold on them.
Picky #1: I'm getting used to clipping in with them...but I'm not 'on target' 100% of the time yet. I especially seem to have trouble with the left foot when starting out. I'll clip in the Right foot, give it a grunt to start and then spend the next few seconds waving my Left foot around, trying to get it to clip in. Doesn't happen every time, sometimes I step right in, done. I don't know if a set of SPDs would be better or not. I don't remember having such issues with the ol' SPDs...but I never had my feet so high up in the air either.
Picky, picky #2: takes two totally different tools to adjust them. The 'float' uses a 2mm hex. The tension adjustment requires a tiny little torx bit (whatever the size, it is the smallest one in my Harbor-Freight set). They could have easily just used another 2mm hex for that. Oh, I'm sorry...that would have been sensible!
The cleat design seems to be designed to trap dirt and rocks rather than to shed them. The adjustment screws to control 'float' are part of the cleat. The cleat actually rotates in the shoe to provide 'float', so you set the screws as 'stops' (one for left rotation, the other for right). Unless you set them for "no-float", there is a gap between the screws and the fixed portion of the cleat. Gaps fill with whatever you're walking on, dirt, muck, etc. I can see where any 'float' might simply go away if you got a pebble or something lodged in there. Sorry for the giant pic of my shoe...
You can see the set-screws on the left hand side of the cleat.
You may also see that they're pretty scuffed up after just a few months of riding/walking. They aren't very deeply recessed in these shoes. They walk fine...but they also "crunch" on anything but dead-flat, super smooth concrete.
Otherwise, I have found them to do the job. They don't unclip unexpectedly and they're fairly easy to adjust. They solved my problem...but I'm simply not sure I like them. I will be buying yet another set of SPDs sometime in the future...I won't be happy until I can compare the two systems.
Backstory: I started using SPDs about 17 yrs ago when I bought my first 'bent (Catrike). I never really had any issues with them. When I went to two wheels (Optima Baron), I installed another set of SPDs...and discovered un-clip tension adjustments (never adjusted them for the trike).
I don't ever recall having any heel/ankle strike issues with the SPDs but when I started riding MBB, I started noticing that one or the other heel would sometimes rub/touch the crank arm as it went by. Never a hard hit...but annoying. I dealt with it by using block pedals, I could just shift my foot around so that it wouldn't hit. On the Conversion and on the later V2/Ks, block pedals are no problem...so I never fitted a set of clip-in pedals.
When I got the V20, I knew I was going to need clip-in (I hate the term 'clipless') pedals...but made my first rides with block pedals anyway. I noticed right away that I was getting heel/ankle strikes a lot more. I tried to take my old SPDs off of one of the V2/Ks but time (and corrosion) had welded them in place. So, I headed to my LBS to buy another set of SPDs.
While I was there, I saw a set of SYZR pedals and started looking into them. "Adjustable float" caught my eye. What I wanted was a set of pedals that I could adjust to eliminate that heel/ankle strike.
The SYZR pedals indeed eliminated the problem...but I'm not totally sold on them.
Picky #1: I'm getting used to clipping in with them...but I'm not 'on target' 100% of the time yet. I especially seem to have trouble with the left foot when starting out. I'll clip in the Right foot, give it a grunt to start and then spend the next few seconds waving my Left foot around, trying to get it to clip in. Doesn't happen every time, sometimes I step right in, done. I don't know if a set of SPDs would be better or not. I don't remember having such issues with the ol' SPDs...but I never had my feet so high up in the air either.
Picky, picky #2: takes two totally different tools to adjust them. The 'float' uses a 2mm hex. The tension adjustment requires a tiny little torx bit (whatever the size, it is the smallest one in my Harbor-Freight set). They could have easily just used another 2mm hex for that. Oh, I'm sorry...that would have been sensible!
The cleat design seems to be designed to trap dirt and rocks rather than to shed them. The adjustment screws to control 'float' are part of the cleat. The cleat actually rotates in the shoe to provide 'float', so you set the screws as 'stops' (one for left rotation, the other for right). Unless you set them for "no-float", there is a gap between the screws and the fixed portion of the cleat. Gaps fill with whatever you're walking on, dirt, muck, etc. I can see where any 'float' might simply go away if you got a pebble or something lodged in there. Sorry for the giant pic of my shoe...
You can see the set-screws on the left hand side of the cleat.
You may also see that they're pretty scuffed up after just a few months of riding/walking. They aren't very deeply recessed in these shoes. They walk fine...but they also "crunch" on anything but dead-flat, super smooth concrete.
Otherwise, I have found them to do the job. They don't unclip unexpectedly and they're fairly easy to adjust. They solved my problem...but I'm simply not sure I like them. I will be buying yet another set of SPDs sometime in the future...I won't be happy until I can compare the two systems.
LarryOz
Cruzeum Curator & Sigma Wrangler
Nice - a real beauty!
I also really like the extra large steering dampener - looks like it doubles as a seat belt!
Happy riding!
ratz
Wielder of the Rubber Mallet
For hard riding and training on a budget the the Look Keo is still worth a look.
Look Keo 2 Max $60 ish
Look Keo Classic 2 Road $40 ish
Both come with the Grey Cleat with 4.5 degree of float.
Then you can add the 9 degree red cleat $20
To avoid heel crank arm interference you can install the cleat at a slight angle on the shoe.
Realistically these well give you the best power transfer for the price Most of the race pedals are Keo clones; with Speedplay's Zero, and ULA line being the other.
Of course that means having to have 3 hole road shoes.
Look Keo 2 Max $60 ish
Look Keo Classic 2 Road $40 ish
Both come with the Grey Cleat with 4.5 degree of float.
Then you can add the 9 degree red cleat $20
To avoid heel crank arm interference you can install the cleat at a slight angle on the shoe.
Realistically these well give you the best power transfer for the price Most of the race pedals are Keo clones; with Speedplay's Zero, and ULA line being the other.
Of course that means having to have 3 hole road shoes.
Tigerpaw
Well-Known Member
I'm thinking this might be true for the Rolf 58RSC wheels. After a few rides with these wheels, I put the DTSwiss R460 also with powertap) on the front and there appears to be less flex in the DTSwiss wheel.
So, now I'm searching for a 60-90mm carbon faring, aluminum rim, 28 spoke with powertap wheel.
Tigerpaw
Well-Known Member
I'm thinking this might be true for the Rolf 58RSC wheels. After a few rides with these wheels, I put the DTSwiss R460 also with powertap) on the front and there appears to be less flex in the DTSwiss wheel.
So, now I'm searching for a 60-90mm carbon faring, aluminum rim, 28 spoke with powertap wheel.
Just doesn't look the same without a fared front wheel. LOL
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PeteClark
Active Member
I like the "slammed" look but it didn't work for me because my shoulders are a bit higher than my handlebars and they block the view. I mounted one of these on the left brifter... https://amzn.com/B00V9STSFA The higher mounting point makes the difference. The mirror is convex and nearly 3" in diameter. The wide viewing angle gives me two lanes of road on my left and a reasonable view over my right shoulder at the same time, all with one mirror.
